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Rams Tor

2009-10-24T13:00:27Z

Bill Gregory:

'''[[Contents]]'''
'''[[Gower]]'''

GR617868

[[Image:rams tor panoramic.jpg|700px|thumb|centre|Rams Tor (for a photo topo see [[RAMS TOR PHOTO TOPO]])]]

== TIDAL STATUS ==

Routes left of ''Nostradamus'' are Non-tidal. Routes to the right 2-3 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear
on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

This wonderful west facing, mostly non tidal and very accessible crag has been rebolted/tidied at the end of 2008 - a combined effort by Adrian Berry and locals with hardware provided by the [http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/ SWMC].

The wall consists of a left hand section which is slabby at the bottom and steep at the top. In contrast the right hand side of the crag contains a slab above a series of stepped roofs.

The crag takes seepage immediately after heavy rain but then dries very quickly.

The routes, like a good Talisker, start rather harshly but have a silky smooth aftertaste.

If you don't like getting your ropes wet then best take a tarpaulin to cover over the rock pools (or fill them in with rubble).

For a Topo (work in progress) of the crag click this link [[RAMS TOR PHOTO TOPO]]

== ACCESS ==

A quicker approach for locals is from the clifftop path from Rotherslade. Visitors should follow the B4433 through
Mumbles to park at the Limeslade Bay. This is just west of the Mumbles headland (GR627872), it has a small ice
cream parlour/cafe above it. Walk west along the coastal path for about 500m until it starts to climb up some steps.
The top of the steps are directly above the crag.

== DESCENTS ==

There is a path (in the loosest sense of the word) down the western spur of the bay - this is best attempted as an ascent than descent and is definitely not advised if wearing shorts.

On the east side of the bay abseil stakes are in place above ''Ride the Funky Wave''.

At maximum low tide it is possible to scramble in and out close to the waters edge on the eastern side of the bay.

== THE ROUTES ==

''The routes are described from left to right. For ease of identification, the first three routes are bolted completely using stainless steel staples.''

[[Image:Ramstor2.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Chris Wyatt on ''Renaissance'']]

1a. '''Rampage - Fr7a+ **'''

Starting from a large flat block perched above a drop about 10m from the left end of the crag this route covers some very steep territory, but on surprisingly big holds. Pull into a niche and to a projecting block then up and left to sloping holds on the lip. Go up and right to a roof then traverse left until a stretch reaches a break and more reachy moves to 2 jugs. A stiff move to pockets and a stretch left to a sloping ledge brings the belay in reach. Steep !!

''B. Gregory 17.10.2009''

1. '''The Constant Gardener - Fr6c **'''

The second line of bolts on the left above a conglomerate ledge at the right end of the large low roof. Easy until the big roof, which is crossed leftwards on good holds in an amazingly exposed position.

''B. Gregory 13.07.2009''

2. '''Air Display - Fr.7a+ **'''

A few metres right of ''The Constant Gardener'' is a large flake. Start up the flake and continue directly until a cleaned out corner to the left can be gained. A rising rightwards line leads to a tough technical finale past the last staple.

''A. Rosier 25.07.2009''

3. '''The Cool Crux Clan - Fr.7a *'''

Start 5m left of the north (left) end of the main roof, below a faint groove at the top. Climb the line of bolts just to the right of this.

''A.Berry, G.Morris 00.00.1993''

4. '''Ride The Funky Wave, Babe - Fr.7a **'''

A superb climb. Start at a boulder problem roof then up through the second band via a tough left sidepull. The route then bears slightly right onto the slab and delicately up.

''A.Berry 00.00.1992''

''The main roof starts here.''
[[Image:Ramstor10.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Climbers on ''Rain Dance'']]

5. '''Rain Dance - Fr.7b **'''

Start about 1m right of where the obvious roof starts. Gain this fairly directly and cross it with a hard move at the lip.

''A.Berry, P.Christie 00.00.1993''

''There is a space of about 10m before the next route on the right.''

6. '''Hypocritical Mass - Fr.7b+ *'''

Start just left of the left-hand boulder jammed at the base of the crag. Make a desperate move to start, then gain the roof easily. Cross the roof on crystals to a thin pull round the lip and finish easily up the slab.

''A.Berry 00.00.1993''

7. '''Renaissance - Fr.6c+ *'''

This route requires a clip stick to get the first clip. Pull up the rope to jugs then aim for the obvious step in the lip. A hard pull gets the climber established on the slab.

''A Berry 21.12.2008''

8. '''Nostradamus - Fr.7b **'''

Start below a flake and crack. Make a series of technical and strenuous pulls through the roof stack to a lie down rest under the main roof. Grope bindly over the main roof and pull onto the slab.

''A.Berry 00.00.1993''

9. '''The Loneliness Of The Long Distance Runner - Fr.7b'''

Start just to the right of ''Nostradamus'' and take a bold and fairly direct line to the top. A long reach is required.

''A.Berry, N. Thomas 00.00.1993''

10. '''Totally Clips - Fr.7c **'''

The last bolted line on the right

11. '''One Small Step - E3,5c *'''

Right at the far end of the crag, either leap to a jug in space, or make a 6a move. Traverse right, then up to finish.

''A.Berry, J.Brown 00.00.1993''

''Other stuff includes:''

12. '''Unseconded - Fr.7a *'''

A left to right traverse of the upper slab. Start as for ''The Cool Crux Clan'' and move across and slightly up into ''Rain Dance''. From ''Rain Dance'', step down, across and back up, then continue at about the same level to a final slight rise to reach ''Captain Hook''. Finish as for Captain Hook.

''A.Berry 00.00.1996''

13. '''Captain Hook - Fr.7b '''

A link up. Start as for ''Nostradamus''. Finish as for ''Renaissance''

''A.Berry 00.00.0000''

[[Image:rams tor overview.jpg|700px|thumb|centre|Crag Shot]]

[[Image:Ramstor11.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Simon Rawlinson on ''Nostradamus'']]

[[Image:Ramstornostradamus.jpg|225px|thumb|left|Simon Rawlinson on the top of ''Nostradamus'']]

2009-08-17T23:00:12Z

Bill Gregory:

[[Contents]]

[[Dinas Rock]]

[[Image:Dinas_Main_Crag.jpg|800px|thumb|center|Dinas - Main Crag]]

[[Image:Hayabusa.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Hayabusa Fr.7c. Climber: Simon Rawlinson]]

==PREAMBLE==

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> ''' The crag can be sub divided into three main sections.'''
'''The Tower'''

This covers Pis En Lit to Pus Off

'''Nudger Sector'''

From Each Way Nudger to Totally Radish

'''Main Roof Sector'''

From Finger Pinch to Bloody Sport Climbers

'''Main Wall (Sector Right of Main Roof)''' </div>===
From Subversive Body Pumping to Day Screamer

1. '''Route name route grade'''

Description of the route. Route length in metres

===First Ascents===

<font size="1">

1. A.Name 00.00.0000

</font>

The Tower

''This is the prominent tower set up and left from the recess at the left side of the Main Crag.''

75. '''Pis En Lit - Fr.6b'''

The line just left of the arete of the tower, starting directly over the overlap. Stepping in from the right reduces the
grade to Fr6a+. 18m

R.Thomas, G.Gibson 15.02.1998

76. '''Illegal Congress 18m - Fr6b'''

Climbs the wall right of the arete of the buttress.

R.Thomas, G.Gibson 15.02.1998

77. '''Family Values 18m - Fr6a+'''

The wall right of Illegal Congress.

R.Thomas 00.00.1998

The Recess

78. '''Descent Route 45m'''

Not the best of descents. Start at a large jammed block reached by scrambling up left from the main overhang.
Climb the right side of the block and a short crack, then move right into a gully leading to the top.
Unknown Pre-1973

79. '''Ivy Nest 24m - VD'''

Climb the deep cleft 4m right of Descent Route.

Unknown Pre-1973

80. '''Stray Cats 24m - E4,6a'''

Good, steep climbing. Start just right of Ivy Nest. Pull over a small overhang with difficulty to good holds. Move
right, BR, to a groove, and follow this to the top.

P.Tilson M.Danford Sisyphus A2 00.00.1972
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 09.08.1983

81. '''Puss Off 20m - Fr7a'''

The roof right of Stray Cats to a BB.

G.Gibson 22.03.1998

'''Nudger Sector'''

The following routes start below a platform running across to the arete of the main roof.

82. '''Each Way Nudger 15m - Fr6c'''

Start where the platform starts on the left. Climb up for 4m then continue via a shallow thin crack to gain the bulge.
Pull over this leftwards, BB.

G.Gibson, M.Ward, T.Penning, C.Court, P.Creswell 19.05.1985

The following two routes climb direct lines through the now defunct Gentle Push E4,6a (P.Littlejohn, C.Court 1985).

83. '''When Push Comes To Shove 20m - Fr7a+'''

To the right of Each Way Nudger at half-height is prominent roof. Gain this directly, pull through it desperately to
below some overlaps. Climb right of the BR out on the left, then swing left for 3m to the BB of Each Way Nudger.

G.Gibson 15.02.1998

84.''' Call a Spade a Spade 20m - Fr6c'''

The right-hand line through the half-height overlap, to a groove high on the crag, BB.

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15.02.1998

85. '''Unnamed Route 2 18m - HVS,5a'''

Start as For Call A Spade A Spade. Climb up right to a small overhang. Pull over this and move right to a big
flake. Climb this and the groove above, on the left, to the top.

L.Francombe, A.Reed 00.00.1981

86.''' Totally Radish 24m - Fr6b+ *'''

Start just below the prominent arete bounding the left side of the main crag. Move up left to a small cave, then pull
up onto the roof. Panic at the lack of holds until a hidden borehole is found. Once established, climb the left side
of the arete above. The route to the right is Durbin 2, Watson Nil, described below.

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 22.03.1998

'''The Left-hand Section'''

This area starts where the banking drops away from the recess and the roof proper starts.

87. '''Finger Pinch 24m - E3,5c'''

Largely superseded since the arrival of Durbin Two, Watson Nil, but still an easy way through some impressive
terrain. The bolts on D2,W0 replace the PR and TR, but the last bolt is a bit naughty, although for the purist, there
is a good rock slot round to the left. Walk along the ledge leading from the recess area to the arete, pull onto the
arete (excellent TR here - not in situ), and climb this via grooves and a small overlap to the top. BB.

P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 00.00.1986

88.''' Wild Magic 31m - E3,6a *'''

As for Finger Pinch, but cross below the bottom of a groove, then move up and right to a horizontal break. Follow
this to gain a layback crack leading up the wide groove, PR. Abseil from trees at the top.

T.Penning, A. Sharp, P.Cresswell 11.07.1982

89.''' Lip Trick 42m - E3,6a,5c *'''

1. 21m A wild trip on the very lip of the overhang. Follow Wild Magic to the PR. Continue traversing (crux) PR,
to a PB.
2. 21m Climb up then right to a groove. Climb this for 3m until it is possible to move right to a crack (Gastro).
Follow this passing old PRs to the top.

T.Penning, P.Littlejohn 05.07.1983

90.''' Cautious Lip 48m - E6,6a,6b,6a *** '''􀁷

A brilliant left to right girdle of the lip of the main overhang, with outrageous positions.

1. 18m As for Wild Magic.

2. 12m Move right into the crack of Gastro, NR and climb down this for 4m. Traverse right with difficulty into
Bangkok and belay.

3. 18m Traverse right and Finish up Caution To The Wind.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

''The next batch of routes start to the right of the left arete of the crag. They take lines directly through the roof and await
big brothers and sisters.''

91.''' Durbin Two, Watson Nil 24m - Fr7c **'''

Start below and left of the jam crack at the left-hand side of the roof, below what looks like a good pocket in the
roof. Climb easily to the roof and explode powerfully through to the lip. It is essential to avoid autocorrelation
when turning the lip and the sequence required is rather bizarre, but a sneaky hint is tape up your ankles. An
unsubtle hint is use a series of overhead footlocks. Finish up the right side of the arete.

G.Ashmore 23.03.1997

92.''' Giant Killer 35m - E6,6a,6a **'''

Formerly the most fearsome route at Dinas and one that retains considerable status. Most of the gear is in situ,
but a thorough cleaning is required to return it to classic status. The second pitch is rarely done and most abseil
off after the lip to avoid the vegetation. Gain the hanging corner right of Durbin Two, Watson Nil from the right and
follow it to the roof, PR. Traverse right to gain a crack leading out to the lip. Gain this, PR, and in situ nuts to make
a long move to gain the lip (good Friend). Turn the lip, BR and pull up easily to a slight niche and belay or ab off.
The second pitch takes the groove above past several PRs.

P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 1pt 26.06.1983, FFA M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.04.1988

93.''' Gastro 25m - A2'''

To the right of Giant Killer, a row of rather large bolts leads through the roof to the lip.

C.Mortlock Pre-1973

''The following routes are located above the roof, towards the right-hand end of the roof.''

94. '''Bangkok 21m - E5,6b'''

Abseil in to a TB on the lip of the roofs, 5m left of Caution To The Wind. Follow a line of pockets up the arete above,
moving right to finish, 2TRs, PR.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis 27.07.1985

95. '''Caution To The Wind 21m - E4,6a *'''

Abseil in to a groove about 5m left of Springboard. Climb the groove TR, to a PB.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985

96.''' Sai Finish 21m - E5,6b *'''

From 3m above the belay on Caution To The Wind, move left to finish up a slim groove.

A.Sharp, J.Harwood 05.10.1985

97.''' Springboard 42m - A2,E3,6a,5a'''

Start below a crack splitting the roof on the right-hand end of the Main Overhang. It is also possible to reach pitch
2 via an abseil to the lip of the overhang.

1. 24m Use aid to gain the lip of the overhang. Free climb to gain the groove above and follow this to a tree stump
and belay.

2. 18m Step left and climb up to exit left on to vegetation.

P.Watkin, C.Jones - Pre-1973, FFA P. Littlejohn, M Harber 16.06.1979

'''Main Wall Sector'''

This is the huge sheet of limestone right of where the monster roof peters out. It contains some of the best sports routes
known to mankind. The first real feature is the bottomless and holdless groove of Subversive Body Pumping, but just
left of this are twin bolts in the roof and a line of jugs leading left above it - this is Spore/Sport Wars.

98. '''Sport Wars 25m - 1pt Fr7b+ *'''

Start left of the prominent Subversive groove and pull to the roof. Cross this using a BA. Pull round the lip, and
make a complex sequence leftwards (crux) to eventually bridge out across a groove. Follow the left wall/arete
of the groove on wobbly blocks to a BB some 11m above.

G.Gibson 1pt 27.08.1995

99. '''Spore Wars 29m - 1pt Fr7b+ **'''

As for Sport Wars to the bridging rest. Pull right into the groove (where a belay used to be). Move right and finish
up Subversive Body Pumping. Not properly equipped at present.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 1pt 17.04.1988

100.'''Bloody Sport Climbers! 27m - Fr8a **'''

Spore/Sport Wars free. Powerful, but easier (Fr7c+) for the tall.

G.Ashmore 20.05.1997

'''Main Wall'''

'''101.Subversive Body Pumping 26m - Fr7b+ *'''

The aforementioned bottomless, holdless, groove is entered with extreme difficulty (UK 6c technical). Bridge up until a good hold
allows access to the arete. Climb this - a bit run out - to a ledge, then swing right above the bottomless groove,
with a final awkward move up to the chain.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 06.03.1988

102.'''Powers That Be 45m - Fr7c+ **'''

A total mauler which partially traverses the crag. Pull into the groove as for Subversive Body Pumping and climb
it for 4m. Step out to gain a conglomerate hold and a prominent wedged block above. Move desperately up and
improvise rightwards to eventually gain a good no-hands rest on Berlin. Follow Berlin for a couple of moves, but
step right to a vague flake and gain the top roof of Still Life. Cut through the roof as for Still Life to finish.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.04.1988

[[Image:Berlin1.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Berlin Fr.7a+. Climber: Simon Rawlinson]]

103.'''Berlin 23m - Fr7a+ ***'''

A definitive classic of its grade. About 11m right of the Subversive groove is a prominent rectangular hold at about
3m Gain this with difficulty and pull up to the break. Pull over the first roof (crux), then amble up the slab to a
groove. Pull round this, over an overlap and into the upper groove. Make a baffling move out right, then continue
to the next BR. Swing blindly left into a short finishing groove and finish easily. BB.

G.Gibson, M.Ward, M.Crocker 18.05.1985

104.'''Still Life 27m - Fr7b+ ***'''

More stunning climbing. As for Berlin to the ring bolt, but then traverse right on thin edges and undercuts to a suspicious looking hole. Step up on this, and follow the complex and tiring groove above it to gain a good
rest and flake leading to below the final roof. Use undercuts to reach a monster bucket on the lip, cut loose and
soak up the exposure as you dangle above the river. Finish easily, BB.

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 30.04.1994

105.'''Chives Of Freedom 27m - Fr7c **''

Start below the obvious square groove dominating the centre of the crag (The Big Time). Climb easily up
to a shakeout below the roof, then thug through this to slopers and a tough move right to a big jug and no-hands
rest at the base of The Big Time groove. Pull up into the Still Life groove and keeping on blasting up Still Life to
the top.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1pt - Angel Heart 24.04.1988
FFA G.Ashmore 05.06.1994

106.'''The Big Time 27m E6,6c **''' 􀁷

As for Chives Of Freedom to the BR just below the groove. Climb up the groove past poor PRs and a substantial
run out, RPs to a BR at the break. The original route traversed off right here. Pull through the roof with difficulty,
BRs and continue up the headwall to a BB.

P.Littlejohn, T.Penning, J.Harwood 1pt 07.05.1985
FFA G.Gibson, R.Thomas 08.04.1995

107.'''Crock Of Gold 26m - Fr7c *'

A difficult route taking the centre of the big wall right of The Big Time, with two contrasting sections. Start just to
the right of a tufa pillar and sapling growing from the roof. Monkey leftward and climb the tufa pillar to a baffling
sequence through the roof. From the no-hands rest above the roof, continue fairly directly to a real stopper rockup
(crux). Continue thinly to a hairline crack and gain the break via a final tenuous move.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 17.04.1988
108.The Sharp Cereal Professor 26m E5,6b Fr7b **
An excellent line. Start right of Crock Of Gold and climb the groove to the right of the tufa on good holds to the roof.
A blind, hard reach or a lurch gains a good hold above the lip. Pull through, move up and then trend out rightwards
on the slabby wall. A hard move through a small arched overlap gains access to the finishing slab.
G.Gibson 01.05.1994
An older route (Salem’s Lot A.Sharp, P. Lewis 1985) took the start of Crock Of Gold to the sapling and the finish of
The Sharp Cereal Professor. Impressive for its time, it could still be climbed at about Fr7b+.
109.Harlem 27m E6,6b Fr7b+ ***
A superb route at the bottom of the grade. Just right of The Sharp Cereal Professor is the first of two prominent
and large holes in the roof. Climb up a slightly cheesy arete to gain the hole and pull through the roof on big
buckets. Make an improbable, but quite easy, rock-out right using a sharp mono, to a rest before the next roof.
Pull leftwards through this, then quickly move out left to a groove. Climb the groove and finish up the slab above.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 2pt 00.00.1985
FFA M.Crocker, R.Thomas 15.04.1988
110. Hawaiian Chance 24m E6,6c Fr7c *
Start just just right of Harlem. Climb to the roof and a tree stump, then make oddball moves through the roof, TR
and BR, to a slippery arete, BR. Gain Spain at the TRs, good rest. Pull into the groove of Spain, then swing left
round the arete (crux) level with a ring bolt. If successful gain good holds and a BR. It may be advisable to lower
off the last BR rather than climb the unstable (but easy) upper section to the TB.
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 12.05.1991
Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 317
Dinas
111. Spain 24m E4,6a ***
Good climbing in exciting positions. Start beneath a rock tube at 9m. Climb to a small tree. Pull over the bulge
into a scoop, step up and move left to the arete and climb steeply past 2TRs to gain a rest in the hanging groove
above. Reluctantly step right onto the lip of the overhang and traverse right to a groove on the arete, TRs. Step
up and swing left PR, then pull over the roof to gain the crack above, TR. Finish up the crack to tree belays.
Unfortunately this route interferes with the proper bolt placements on adjacent sports routes, thus demonstrating
another problem with traditionally protected routes.
G.Gibson 23.03.1985
112. Groovy Tube Day 24m E1,5b *
A unique route, which explores the obvious tube. Follow Spain into the scoop, step up and move right into the
tube (possible belay). Exit from the top of the tube and climb the corner above to the trees. Abseil.
C.Connick, D.Hughes 00.00.1978
113. On The Broadwalk 65m E1,5a,5b,5c **
Nice climbing and good positions. Start as for Spain.
1. 13m Follow Spain to belay in the tube.
2. 18m Traverse right from the top of the tube and move up onto the slab at a crack. Follow the crack, then move
right to a small foothold at the lip of the overhang. A long low step to a mantleshelf leads to good holds. Move right
to a small tree and PB.
3. 18m Traverse right, then up and right again to a small tree and TR out right. Swing right onto a large block and
continue to a large tree. Abseil.
C.Connick, D.Hughes 16.06.1979
FFA A.Sharp, R.Powles 00.00.1981
114. Dr. Van Steiner 24m E5,6b Fr7b
A bag. Start right of the Spain scoop and climb desperately over an overlap to the roof. Head up towards the tube,
but pull up the arete to join Spain at the upper TRs.
G.Gibson 26.05.1991, G.Ashmore - ALCH 08.08.1999
115. Venice 12m E4,6b 􀁷
The short roof crack to the right, yet to be re-equipped.
A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis, M.Waters, G.Barker 18.08.1985
116. Day Screamer 22m E3,5c
A dirty start leads to good climbing above. Start 5m right of Venice. Climb the overhang and crack above to a
ledge. Step left, then up the slab and overlap above to a tree belay. Abseil.
A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis 18.08.1985

[[Dinas - Cave Area]]