SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Paviland Far West

2012-09-03T11:49:33Z

Bendavies: /* ROUTES */

[[Category:Gower]]
'''[[Contents]]'''[[Image:Zulu Wall.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Zulu Wall]]

'''[[Gower]]'''

'''[[Paviland and Juniper Wall]]'''

== TIDAL STATUS ==
2 hours either side of low water.

== BOLTING POLICY ==
No bolting, except on the overhanging wall at the landward end of the zawn, where new sports routes are allowed.

== DESCENTS ==
By abseil.

== ROUTES ==
[[Image:Ultimatum.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Ultimatum]]
The cliff is characterised by a smooth overhanging white wall at its landward end and a large bowl-shaped cave in the back, containing an A2 Aid Route (''A.Berry 1996'') and the obvious corner of ''Smuts''.

'''Ultimatum - Fr. 7c'''

The line of weakness in the centre of the wall. A trick sequence leads you up the centre of the wall until a big flake is reached. From here launch rightwards with a beautiful drop-knee or a wild slap to a ramp line that leads to the lower off. 18m.

''Simon Rawlinson 03/Jun/2010''

'''Zulu Wall - Fr. 8a'''

The obvious line of the zawn! Climb with ever increasing difficulty up the central flake feature until a vicious bouldery sequence will see success and jugs or a big drop into the void. 20m.

''A.Berry 2010''

1. '''Gunfire Hill''' 21m E1,5b

Start at a left-slanting ramp, about 15m left of ''Smuts''. Go up the ramp for 1m, then take a flake up and right. From the top of the flake continue straight to the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998''

2. '''Voortrekker''' 21m E5,6a

Start below a black bulge 10m left of Smuts. Go up to the bulge and make hard moves left to pass the bulge. Continue slightly rightwards to a very slim groove that leads to the top.

''M.Crocker, J.Harwood 07.06.1998''

3. '''Rorke's Drift''' 21m E1,5b

Climb the centre of the wall 4m left of ''Smuts'', moving right to finish.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986''

4. '''Smuts''' 21m VS,4c

The obvious corner in the wall at the west end of the cliff and climb the corner.

''A.Sharp, J.Harwood 23.02.1986''

Talk:Rhossili old

2012-09-02T10:46:01Z

Bendavies: /* Skill attack grade? */

Chris, you want the guidebook page for this crag, word doc?

Alan. Why have you protected this page? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (UTC)

dunno, force of habit i guess.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 06:59, 24 July 2009 (UTC)

Yes please--[[Special:Contributions/80.4.14.46|80.4.14.46]] 19:31, 28 July 2009 (UTC)

==The White Pole ==
The 2003 Guidebook mentions a "white pole" on the Rhossili clifftop and uses it in its descriptions of crag locations.

Quite a few people have said that this "white pole" has been mis-identified and this error has been mentioned in connection with a fatal accident in the area.

I've commented out references to the "white pole" in the wiki-markup but you can still see them if you look at the source. '''Please do not remove the commenting.''' We need someone to re-write the access notes for this area as, as it stands at the moment, access descriptions are incomplete. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 13:02, 26 September 2009 (UTC)

== Link ==
Gareth, what are you trying to do here? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 23:22, 21 February 2011 (GMT)

== Black Buttress ==
Roy, my description for the line of bolts on [[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]] was made from an assessment of the route from the ground. If you have better info, just remove my edit and put your own text. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:14, 25 July 2011 (BST)

:Hi Tim,whose route is it/who bolted it? The rock was rubbish,the bolts squiffy and there were great clodges in the finishing hold. The route to the right has always been given(Bragg) V diff not VS but there again we didn't climb it so your assessment might be "the one"Are the first ascentionists(N,P Williams)still about?I'm assuming they are Swansea locals of a certain age.

:: Hello Roy! I was surprised to see the hangers when I went down there to map the Rhossili crags. Perhaps you could add your assessment to the ''spiel'' at the beginning of the [[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]] section? About ''Bragg''; [[User:Steve Hill]] climbed it and he said he thought it was VS and he then updated the wiki. I'll ask around and see whether anyone knows N. & P. Williams. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 15:15, 26 July 2011 (BST)

==Chipping on Trial Wall==
Noticed the rference to chipping has been removed.

Is this because:-

* It's untrue
* Don't know whether it's true or not
* It's true
* It's not "politik" to refer to it
* something else
It's not obvious/blatant that it was done in latter years/or originally, you probably would never notice and it's just beating a very old fashioned self righteous drum

: Fairy nuff. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 19:47, 20 September 2011 (BST)

==Retribution Butt Stress==
Retribution Butt Stress? Conjours up some interesting images. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 10:25, 2 December 2011 (GMT)

== Skill attack grade? ==

Given 7c on UKC, but 7b+ here.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=64878
Which is it? --[[User:Bendavies|Bendavies]] 15:35, 31 August 2012 (BST)

Ask a few "old school" climbers E6 6b=7b+.(the bolts have been in and out so many times so its only the E'ness that has changed)--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 17:45, 31 August 2012 (BST)

If Bill recons its 7c, then it probably is.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 21:07, 31 August 2012 (BST)

Happy to update wiki and image topo then? --[[User:Bendavies|Bendavies]] 11:43, 2 September 2012 (BST)

Talk:Rhossili old

2012-09-02T10:43:42Z

Bendavies: /* Skill attack grade? */

Chris, you want the guidebook page for this crag, word doc?

Alan. Why have you protected this page? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 10:08, 21 July 2009 (UTC)

dunno, force of habit i guess.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 06:59, 24 July 2009 (UTC)

Yes please--[[Special:Contributions/80.4.14.46|80.4.14.46]] 19:31, 28 July 2009 (UTC)

==The White Pole ==
The 2003 Guidebook mentions a "white pole" on the Rhossili clifftop and uses it in its descriptions of crag locations.

Quite a few people have said that this "white pole" has been mis-identified and this error has been mentioned in connection with a fatal accident in the area.

I've commented out references to the "white pole" in the wiki-markup but you can still see them if you look at the source. '''Please do not remove the commenting.''' We need someone to re-write the access notes for this area as, as it stands at the moment, access descriptions are incomplete. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 13:02, 26 September 2009 (UTC)

== Link ==
Gareth, what are you trying to do here? --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 23:22, 21 February 2011 (GMT)

== Black Buttress ==
Roy, my description for the line of bolts on [[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]] was made from an assessment of the route from the ground. If you have better info, just remove my edit and put your own text. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:14, 25 July 2011 (BST)

:Hi Tim,whose route is it/who bolted it? The rock was rubbish,the bolts squiffy and there were great clodges in the finishing hold. The route to the right has always been given(Bragg) V diff not VS but there again we didn't climb it so your assessment might be "the one"Are the first ascentionists(N,P Williams)still about?I'm assuming they are Swansea locals of a certain age.

:: Hello Roy! I was surprised to see the hangers when I went down there to map the Rhossili crags. Perhaps you could add your assessment to the ''spiel'' at the beginning of the [[Rhossili#Black Buttress|Black Buttress]] section? About ''Bragg''; [[User:Steve Hill]] climbed it and he said he thought it was VS and he then updated the wiki. I'll ask around and see whether anyone knows N. & P. Williams. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 15:15, 26 July 2011 (BST)

==Chipping on Trial Wall==
Noticed the rference to chipping has been removed.

Is this because:-

* It's untrue
* Don't know whether it's true or not
* It's true
* It's not "politik" to refer to it
* something else
It's not obvious/blatant that it was done in latter years/or originally, you probably would never notice and it's just beating a very old fashioned self righteous drum

: Fairy nuff. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 19:47, 20 September 2011 (BST)

==Retribution Butt Stress==
Retribution Butt Stress? Conjours up some interesting images. --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 10:25, 2 December 2011 (GMT)

== Skill attack grade? ==

Given 7c on UKC, but 7b+ here.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=64878
Which is it? --[[User:Bendavies|Bendavies]] 11:43, 2 September 2012 (BST)

Ask a few "old school" climbers E6 6b=7b+.(the bolts have been in and out so many times so its only the E'ness that has changed)--[[User:Roy thomas|Roy thomas]] 17:45, 31 August 2012 (BST)

If Bill recons its 7c, then it probably is.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 21:07, 31 August 2012 (BST)

Happy to update wiki and image topo then? --[[User:Bendavies|Bendavies]] 11:43, 2 September 2012 (BST)

Talk:Rhossili old

2012-08-31T15:35:48Z

Bendavies: /* Skill attack grade? */ new section

Talk:Tirpentwys

2011-07-26T16:45:39Z

Bendavies: /* Supertramp Video */

1. This is a test [user unknown]

A test? What is the Test?
When does It take place?
Who is my Examiner?
These are questions that i'm sure we have all asked ourselves regarding the Test.
But this is the very beauty of that Test - we cannot know the answer to a single one of those questions.
If we could, it would not be the Test.
In a western world whose educational system is increasingly fixated on course work over end of term testing, our young men and women lose the respect necessary to accept the nature of the Test - they want everything to be the same as their years of course work.
Life is not this way. The Test is not this way... --[[User:Steven Delaney|Del]] 20:48, 3 December 2009 (UTC)

== Route numbering ==

Numbering is broken from Choosey Suzie downwards.

Thanks... hopefully it's fixed now. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 15:05, 4 July 2011 (BST)

Any hope of using the following system throughout the wiki? It looks a lot better and is easier to edit in the long run.

#'''Route name - Fr. 6b''' Route description 

: I think it looks '''slightly''' better but it is very fiddly to do well especially when you have to add text inbetween route descriptions. The wiki markup becomes very difficult to read when we do this. It's also difficult to mix route descriptions and photos for example and too many <nowiki> s</nowiki> could make our task to "soup up" the layout with CSS in the future very difficult. If we were continually updating crags and their routes descriptions then I think that would swing me... but once it's all on the wiki, updates will arrive fairly slowly.

: How about mixing it? It doesn't irritate me much when I see the different formats. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:09, 4 July 2011 (BST)

: Also, looking at the Tirpentwys page, doing it the <nowiki> </nowiki> way is going to make it difficult to add proper linkable sub-sections within the route descriptions. The other way means we can be more flexible.

: Another thought: Suppose someone adds a direct finish to a route or more likely squeezes in a route between two others. With the old way of doing things we could, at a pinch, number the route "23A" for example and then have very little editing to do of the crag's topo. I'm assuming here that others are not using "layers" in designing the topos. If you '''are''' using "layers" in your topo designs then this would not be a concern. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:25, 4 July 2011 (BST)

''our task to "soup up" the layout with CSS in the future very difficult.'' This statement worries me some.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 22:16, 4 July 2011 (BST)

: No need to worry. The current CSS gives us little control over the positioning of images and doesn't allow us fine control of page layout. Should we ever wish to develop the style and layout further, (and of course we'd all have to agree on this!), then adding html tags (esp. <nowiki> </nowiki>) will make it very awkward.

: Anyway, to be honest I like the simple layout... but I also like keeping our options open. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 23:32, 4 July 2011 (BST)

=Access Issues=

I have just got the following message off a caving friend of mine:

"Is this you?

Can anyone put me in toutch with the person or persons who have bolted and put hangers into a small quarry face in Trewpentis nature reserve near Pontypool?

Whoever did it has done the most excellent job.

Unfortunatally they also freaked the landowner out and all climbing is prohibited. I have spoken to the landowner and I think it is not impossible to get permissive access.

I don't want to be seen as stealing someone elses toys, so if I can be put in toutch with the climbers resposible I'm sure we can work something out that will make everyone happy."

Source: http://ukcaving.com/board/index.php?topic=12219.msg158072%3Btopicseen#new

I thought this was very interesting: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomlinson_v_Congleton_Borough_Council --[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 08:03, 21 July 2011 (BST)

Talk:Tirpentwys

2011-07-06T14:11:19Z

Bendavies: /* Supertramp Video */ new section

1. This is a test [user unknown]

A test? What is the Test?
When does It take place?
Who is my Examiner?
These are questions that i'm sure we have all asked ourselves regarding the Test.
But this is the very beauty of that Test - we cannot know the answer to a single one of those questions.
If we could, it would not be the Test.
In a western world whose educational system is increasingly fixated on course work over end of term testing, our young men and women lose the respect necessary to accept the nature of the Test - they want everything to be the same as their years of course work.
Life is not this way. The Test is not this way... --[[User:Steven Delaney|Del]] 20:48, 3 December 2009 (UTC)

== Route numbering ==

Numbering is broken from Choosey Suzie downwards.

Thanks... hopefully it's fixed now. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 15:05, 4 July 2011 (BST)

Any hope of using the following system throughout the wiki? It looks a lot better and is easier to edit in the long run.

#'''Route name - Fr. 6b''' Route description 

: I think it looks '''slightly''' better but it is very fiddly to do well especially when you have to add text inbetween route descriptions. The wiki markup becomes very difficult to read when we do this. It's also difficult to mix route descriptions and photos for example and too many <nowiki> s</nowiki> could make our task to "soup up" the layout with CSS in the future very difficult. If we were continually updating crags and their routes descriptions then I think that would swing me... but once it's all on the wiki, updates will arrive fairly slowly.

: How about mixing it? It doesn't irritate me much when I see the different formats. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:09, 4 July 2011 (BST)

: Also, looking at the Tirpentwys page, doing it the <nowiki> </nowiki> way is going to make it difficult to add proper linkable sub-sections within the route descriptions. The other way means we can be more flexible.

: Another thought: Suppose someone adds a direct finish to a route or more likely squeezes in a route between two others. With the old way of doing things we could, at a pinch, number the route "23A" for example and then have very little editing to do of the crag's topo. I'm assuming here that others are not using "layers" in designing the topos. If you '''are''' using "layers" in your topo designs then this would not be a concern. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 17:25, 4 July 2011 (BST)

''our task to "soup up" the layout with CSS in the future very difficult.'' This statement worries me some.--[[User:Alan rosier|Alan rosier]] 22:16, 4 July 2011 (BST)

: No need to worry. The current CSS gives us little control over the positioning of images and doesn't allow us fine control of page layout. Should we ever wish to develop the style and layout further, (and of course we'd all have to agree on this!), then adding html tags (esp. <nowiki> </nowiki>) will make it very awkward.

: Anyway, to be honest I like the simple layout... but I also like keeping our options open. --[[User:Tim Hoddy|Tim Hoddy]] 23:32, 4 July 2011 (BST)

== Supertramp Video ==

Noticed a few videos popping up on other crag pages, so thought I'd contribute.
Not the best video in the world, but here's a video of an onsite of Supertramp:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7ro9pll5uk

Only starts half way up unfortunately (just can't find reliably cameramen these days), after the easy bit.
Feel free to use if you feel it will enhance the wiki.

Cheers,
Ben (The Slowest Climber in South Wales).

Talk:Tirpentwys

2011-07-04T12:47:19Z

Bendavies: /* Route numbering */ new section