SWMC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Category:Inland Limestone

2017-11-18T22:33:31Z

Alan rosier:

[[Bridgend Area]]

[[Baltic Quarry]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Castle Quarry]] [[Image:New_crag_spot_green.png|link=]]

[[Cefn Coed]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Clogau Mawr]]

[[Craig y Nos]]

[[Darren Fawr]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Dinas Rock]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Fernlea Slabs - Risca]]

[[Herbert's Quarry]]

[[Llangattock]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Michaelston-le-pit]]

[[Taf Fechan]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Taffs Well]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Wenvoe (whitehall) Quarry]]

Taffs Well West

2017-11-18T22:32:45Z

Alan rosier: Replaced content with " The Pinnacle. Photograph: Steve Delaney Image:Diamond Wall 1.jpg|250px|thumb|right|The Diamond Wall. Photograph by Stev..."

Category:Inland Limestone

2017-11-18T22:28:27Z

Alan rosier:

Gilwern Hill - Crag X

2017-11-18T22:27:12Z

Alan rosier:

Gilwern Hill - Crag X

2017-11-18T22:26:21Z

Alan rosier:

[[Contents]]

[[Inland Limestone]]

==Bolting Policy==

Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed.

==Preamble==

25 routes up to 10/12mts in height. Rock is mainly flowstone and can be friable. Fully bolted with lower offs for all routes. The crag is split into 2 sections, a small wall containing 11 routes is on the right approx 250mts before the main wall. Because of its altitude it can be cold, but facing west gets any afternoon sun that's going. A good afternoon evening crag in fine weather.

==Access==

From Blaenavon take B4246 for approx' 1 mile, turn left at keepers pond towards Lamb and Fox, pass the pub and continue for approx' 1mile until there is a very steep drop into an old quarry. You can park just before the steep drop or there is room for 1 car just after. A small path leads up from the road, follow this trending left until you come to the first wall on your right (11 routes here) continue along the path for 250mts to the main wall.

==Descent==

== The Routes==

1. '''Jug fest F4+ *'''

A Jug fest up the isolated wall on the left! 25m.

2. '''Destination Brynmawr F6a'''

The angled groove with an awkward finish.

3. '''Tea Leaves F6b **'''

4. '''Battle of the bulge F6c **'''

5. '''Flow Job F6b **'''

6. '''Christian broke my flake F6a+ ** '''

7. '''Diagnosis Made Easy F6c+ ** '''

8. '''Pwll Du Crack F5+ '''

9. '''Go with the flow F6a '''

10. '''There's no business like flow business F5+ '''

11. '''Whatever floats your boat F5+ '''

12. '''A paddock full of ponies F5 '''

13. '''Crack me up F4+ '''

14. '''All aboard my dingy F4'''

15. '''Cod liver oil F6b * '''

16. '''Glucosamine & Chondroitin F6c **'''

17. '''Fuelled by Pies F7a+ * '''

18. '''Johnny takes a tumble F6a * '''

19. '''Snap crackle n Pop F6a '''

20. '''White Noise F5 '''

21. '''Back, crack and sack F5 *'''

22. '''Take me up the Hindu Kush F5+'''

23. '''To Dai or not to Dai F5+ '''

24. '''Brittle Biscuit F4+ *'''

25. '''Under a blood red sky F5+ *'''

[[Image:Gilwernmaincrag.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Gilwern Hill Main Crag. Photo: Robin McAlister]]

[[Image:flowstone wall.jpg|500px|thumb|centre|A busy day on the flowstone. Photo: Robin McAlister]]

[[Image:x1.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|]]

[[Image:x2.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|]]

[[Image:x3.jpg|300px|thumb|centre|]]

Morfa Bychan and Pendine

2017-11-18T22:25:16Z

Alan rosier: Replaced content with "''Category:Carmarthenshire''"

[[''Category:Carmarthenshire'']]

Category:Inland Limestone

2017-11-18T22:23:54Z

Alan rosier:

{{#seo:
|title=Gower and South East Wales Rock Climbing Wiki - Inland Limestone
|keywords=rock climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, South Wales, Gower, wiki
|description=Rock Climbing and Sport Climbing on Gower, Wales
}}
__NOTITLE__
[[Category:Gower and South East Wales]]
[[Image:Rob1at tww.png|600px|thumb|right|The breath taking Taffs Well West. Photo: Alan Rosier / Rob McAllister]]

'''[[Contents]]'''

[[Bridgend Area]]

[[Baltic Quarry]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Castle Quarry]] [[Image:New_crag_spot_green.png|link=]]

[[Cefn Coed]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Clogau Mawr]]

[[Craig y Nos]]

[[Darren Fawr]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Dinas Rock]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Fernlea Slabs - Risca]]

[[Gilwern Hill - Crag X]]

[[Herbert's Quarry]]

[[Llangattock]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Michaelston-le-pit]]

[[Taf Fechan]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Taffs Well]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Taffs Well West]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Twynau Gwynion Quarries]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Wenvoe (whitehall) Quarry]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Image:Key.png|left|link=]]

Taffs Well Pinnacle

2017-11-18T22:23:18Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Category:Inland Limestone

2017-11-18T22:22:35Z

Alan rosier:

{{#seo:
|title=Gower and South East Wales Rock Climbing Wiki - Inland Limestone
|keywords=rock climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, South Wales, Gower, wiki
|description=Rock Climbing and Sport Climbing on Gower, Wales
}}
__NOTITLE__
[[Category:Gower and South East Wales]]
[[Image:Rob1at tww.png|600px|thumb|right|The breath taking Taffs Well West. Photo: Alan Rosier / Rob McAllister]]

'''[[Contents]]'''

[[Bridgend Area]]

[[Baltic Quarry]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Castle Quarry]] [[Image:New_crag_spot_green.png|link=]]

[[Cefn Coed]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Clogau Mawr]]

[[Craig y Nos]]

[[Darren Fawr]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Dinas Rock]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Fernlea Slabs - Risca]]

[[Gilwern Hill - Crag X]]

[[Herbert's Quarry]]

[[Llangattock]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Michaelston-le-pit]]

[[Taf Fechan]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Taffs Well]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Taffs Well Pinnacle]] [[Image:New_crag_spot_green.png|link=]]

[[Taffs Well West]] [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png|link=]]

[[Twynau Gwynion Quarries]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Wenvoe (whitehall) Quarry]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]

[[Image:Key.png|left|link=]]

Gilwern East

2017-11-18T22:21:34Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Naughty Crag

2017-11-18T22:20:26Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Category:South East Wales Sandstone

2017-11-18T22:19:38Z

Alan rosier:

{| class="wikitable" align="center" style=" width:100%; height:200px" border="1"

|+ '''CRAGS BY RATING SYSTEM'''
|-
! The Best
! The Rest
! Je Déteste
|-
|

|
*[[Blaenllechau]] [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]
*[[Brombil Woods Crag]]

*[[Craig Tyle-Cam]]
*[[Craig y Pal-Glais]]
*[[Cwm Dimbath]]
*[[Dan Dicks]]
*[[Dyfryn Woods Crag]]
*[[Ferndale]]
*[[Gelli]]
*[[Gimp Cliff (Bedwellty)]]
*[[Glynfach]]
*[[Graig Fawr]]
*[[Oakdale]]
*[[Ridgeway]]
*[[Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy]]
*[[Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry (Six Bells)]]
*[[Sugardaddy Gasworks (Beddau)]]
*[[Ton Pentre]]
*[[Trehafod]]

|

*''[[Abercynon High Buttress]]''
*''[[Cefnpennar]]''
*''[[Cefnstylle Quarry]]'' [[Image:Lock-open.png|link=]]
*''[[Clydach Quarry]]''
*''[[Crosskeys Quarry]]''
*''[[Crumlin (X3)]]''
*''[[Cwm Park Street]]''
*''[[Dell, The]]''
*''[[Graigola]]''
*''[[Henllys Quarry]]''
*''[[Lewistown]]''
*''[[Llantrisant Drugs Cliff]]''
*''[[Llwynypia]]''
*''[[Machen]]''
*''[[Mount Pleasant (X2)]]''
*''[[Neath Abbey Quarry]]''
*''[[New Tredegar]]''
*''[[Penrhiwceiber Quarry]]''
*''[[Punk Rocks]]''
*''[[Skull Rocks]]''
*''[[Swffryd Wood Quarry]]''
*''[[Ynysybwl Quarry]]''

|}

Tyle y Coch

2017-11-18T22:17:51Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar)

2017-11-18T22:16:18Z

Alan rosier:

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR934981

[[Image:picture name to be uploaded.jpg|view size px|thumb|centre|description of the pic]]

== BOLTING POLICY ==

New sports routes allowed or not?

== PREAMBLE ==

A great crag in a stunning position (especially if facing away from Treherbert). Not recommended in winter due to it's exposed position. Plenty of scope for new routes. Some bolt belays are now available to replace/supplement the former belays (tied off earth mounds). The stake on the top is very shallow and should not be relied on as anything other than a rope guide for lowering off. The BB is hidden down the back of the pillar.

== ACCESS ==

The crag lies up the mountainside above Treherbert railway station - a convenient way of arriving if on foot. If coming by car drive to the same place and park. Cross over the track to the far side of the railway, and follow a track left across a stream, then take the track up right. Continue up this for 1/4 mile, until a trail breaks off left after a couple of bends where the track starts to flatten out. This track leads directly up to the crag in about 5 minutes.

== DESCENTS ==

Lower off or walk off? Rope length required?

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Main Pillar </div>===

From right to left (as approached) and left of a free standing blocky pillar:

'''1. Nailbiter 18m E4,6a'''

The leaning wall right of the obvious crack in the wall, 1BR, PR.

'''2. Thumbsucker 18m E4,6a ***'''

The classic finger jamming crack. The Mau Mau and the Heaven Crack of sandstone!

'''3. Nosepicker 18m E5,6b **'''

The arete to the left, 2PRs, BR.

'''4. Bizarre Geetar 18m E3,5c'''

The crack/wall/arete round the corner. PR (missing).

'''5. Lamb Leer Disease 18m E1,5b'''

The dirty crack on the front face of the pillar.

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Main Bay </div>===

'''6. Baker Day 9m HS,4b'''

Over left from the pillar is a short wall rising from a ditch at the top of the banking. This route takes the chimney on the right-hand side of the crag.

'''7. Submerged By Blubber 8m E2,5b'''

The crack and roof to the left.

'''8. Little Big Ego 9m E2,6a'''

The crack to the left stepping in from the boulders.

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Back Crag </div>===

Round the back of the quarry, and over to the left is another pillar:

'''9. Lynch ‘Em 12m E5,6a'''

This routes takes the leaning, unprotected groove in the south face of the pillar.

'''10. Exterminate All Bolt Thieves 12m E4,6a'''

A bold line to the right.

===First Ascents===

# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
# M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.12.1988
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
# M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.12.1988
# M.Ward, M.Crocker 31.12.1988
# R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 02.07.1989

Trebanog

2017-11-18T22:12:43Z

Alan rosier: /* First Ascents */

__NOTITLE__
[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

== PREAMBLE ==
A moderately good, pretty solid, low-lying crag, with a sunny aspect and many routes in the lower grades. It can occasionally be windy. Unfortunately there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom of the crag and visits with dogs are probably not wise for this reason. There are plenty of concrete fence posts to belay from at the top of the crag. Due to its relatively low height and easy angle a large number of extremely trivial 'filler ins' have been claimed. As many of these as possible have been included but you will need plumb balls, some string and a ruler to climb them independently.

== ACCESS ==
Take the A4233 to Trebanog, taking the Tonypandy turn off at the traffic lights in the centre of the village. the crag is 200m down the road on the right hand side. If on foot buses run up from Porth.

== DESCENTS ==
It is easy and obvious to walk around either end of the crag.

== THE ROUTES ==
===<div style="text-align: left;"> Left Hand End </div>===

''At the left hand end of the crag is a sharp left hand arête.''

#'''Howell's Arête - HVS, 5a''' If de-vegetated, the arête at the extreme left hand end of the crag is climbed on it's left. 6m 
#'''Howell's Arete Right - HVS,5c''' A good extended boulder problem up the arete on it's right hand side. 6m 
#'''Pete's Boulder Problem - E2, 6b/c''' The brushed wall to the right of the arete. 6m 
#'''Loose Stuff - VS, 4b ''' The vague line of slightly broken cracks at the right hand side of the sheet of solid rock. Poor. 6m 
#'''To The Left - VS, 4b''' Another poor line slightly to the right. 6m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Bolted Overhanging Wall </div>===
[[Image:trebanoh_1.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''One Upmanship - E1, 5c''' On the left hand side of the wall are some thin cracks. Climb them with more difficulty than might be expected! 6m 
#'''March of Progress - Fr. 7a+ *''' The blankest section of rock left of the central hairline crack is gained directly and climbed with a hard crux BR, 2PRs. Using holds in For Your Hands Only reduces the grade. 12m 
#''' For Your Hands Only - Fr. 6c *''' The central crack line. Best to pre-clip bolt No.2 on ''March''. 12m 
#'''Banog's Barmy Army - Fr. 6c+ *''' Straightened out since the first ascent. Start right of For Your Hands Only. BB. 12m 
#'''Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - Fr. 7a''' Start at the line of bolts just to the left of the corner of 'Aunty Pasty'. By avoiding bridging the corner, climb to a break, crux, then pull up to an overlap with a possible rest. Pull left over this, then make a committing stretch for a poor jug. Finish direct to the BB. 12m 
#'''Aunty Pasty - HVS, 4c''' The unlovely corner to the right. 12m 
#'''Unnamed #1 - E1, 5a''' The wall to the right of the corner, swinging right past a missing PR to finish up ''Airplay''. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Main Area </div>===
[[Image:trebanog_main_area_and_overhang.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Air Play - VS, 4b *''' The arête to the right and the crack directly above. 12m 
#'''Playing Away - HVS, 5a''' The wall immediately to the right and the overhanging headwall above the ledge. Very soft for the given grade. 12m 
#'''Bushbaby - HS, 4a''' Start at the left hand side of a hollow in the ground. Climb a line up the to the top. 12m 
#'''Skull Orchard - VS,4c''' A vague line somewhere to the right. 12m 
#'''Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - HVS, 5a''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 11m 
#'''Simon's Crack - S''' The crack to the right. 12m 
#'''S.S.R - D''' The chimney. 11m 
#'''Jaffa Buttress - HVS, 5a *''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 9m 
#'''Terry's Crack - VS, 5a *''' The overhanging crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Heatherette - VS, 5a''' The bounding right hand arête of Terry's Crack provides a couple of almost independent moves. 9m 
#'''Howell's Horror - D''' A nondescript line up the corner of the bay to the right, containing the prominent Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Tankard - HVS, 5a''' The crack to the right of the corner. 9m 
#'''Blagdon - VS, 4c''' The shallow corner bounding the left hand side of the obvious Flat Wall. 11m 
[[Image:trebanog_main_flat_wall.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Flat Wall </div>===

#'''Firewater - Fr. 6b ''' The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m 
#'''Hair Of The Dog - Fr. 7a+ *''' Climb direct up from the sentry box on the Flat Wall. B.B. 11m 
#'''Ethanol - Fr. 6b+''' Follow a line of flakes anticlockwise to the shared B.B. 11m 
#'''Pete of Lancs - Fr. 6c *''' Direct line between ''Blagdon'' and ''Hair of the Dog''. 
#'''Unnamed #2 - VS, 4c?''' The cracks to the right. They don't look VS (insert standard guidebook disclaimer). 11m ''To the right of the Flat Wall and as far as the nose (Ledge Climb) where the crag starts to double back towards the Black Chimney Area are a number of short routes:'' [[Image:trebanog_cheezy_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Barlamb Abuse - D''' The first groove to the right of the Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Shteep - VD''' The cracked arête separating Barlamb Abuse from Gambolling Groove. 11m 
#'''Gambolling Groove - M''' The second groove. 11m 
#'''Vaughan - S''' The vague blunt arête 6m to the right, starting on the left and traversing across to the right and a tricky finishing move. 11m 
#'''Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - VS, 4c *''' To the right of Vaughan, climb the slab and the bulging wall directly above it. 11m 
#'''Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - HVS, 5a/b''' The slab to the right, then step right onto the prominent horizontal platform. Stretch up and make fingery moves past a slot to finish. 11m 
#'''Ledge Climb - VS''' To the right is the arête bounding the area. Go for it, coming in from the left. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Big Black Chimney Area </div>===

#'''Sunday Swing - VS, 4c *''' Climb the wall just right of the arête of L edge Climb to a horizontal break. Traverse right to an enjoyable swing right up to a good crack above the apex of the chimney. Using the start of the next route is a better option with no change in grade. 12m 
#'''Out With The Boys - VS, 4c''' Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney just where the soot starts. At the juggy break swing slightly left and finish direct on big greasy holds. 11m 
#'''Fire Down Below - E2, 5a''' Bridge up the extremely dirty chimney, until a handrail of loose jugs leads left to the finish of the last route. Apart from being a filthy bag, the chimney doubles as inpromptu poo spot and second hand garden furniture depository. 14m 
#'''Kiwis Can't Fly - E1, 5c''' The thin crack in the right hand wall of the chimney finishing up the right hand crack of Sunday Swing. Another poor route. 12m 
#'''I Spy Arête - HS, 4a *''' At last a worthwhile route! The arete to the right of the chimney. 11m [[Image:trebanog_black_chimney_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''I Spy Direct E1, 5b''' The wall to the right. Hidden RPs are available behind the flake above the half height ledge. 9m 
#'''High And Dry - E1, 5a''' The crack line just right. 10m 
#'''Eastend Groove - HS, 4a''' The crack in the left wall of the bay to the right. 9m 
#'''Blood - E1, 5b''' An extremely contrived route up the wall between Eastend Groove and Mick's Little Viper, avoiding gear and holds on either routes. 9m 
#'''Mick's Little Viper - HVS, 5a *''' The clean finger crack in the centre of the wall eats gear. 9m 
#'''Eastend Crack - HS''' The next slightly vegetated crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Desperate Arête - S *''' The arête to the right is very good. 9m ''To the right is another bay:'' 
#'''Decent Route - D''' The cracks in the left wall of the bay. 9m 
#'''Hard Death Rain Down - HS, 4b''' The wall and overhang to the right of Decent Route. 9m 
#'''Unknown Corner - VD''' The right-hand corner of the wall. 9m 
#'''Jo - VS, 4c *''' In the right wall of the bay and the left of the arête is a curving crack which is followed until it is possible to pull out left into a scoop. Continue up the headwall via a protruding block. Good stuff. 9m 
#'''Last Arête - HS, 4c *''' Obvious by name, an excellent little climb. 9m 
#'''Penultimate - HVS, 4c''' The wall immediately right of the last arête. Bold with fragile

===First Ascents===

Left Hand End

#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#P.Lewis 00.00.1995
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990

Overhanging Wall

#M.Learoyd, C.Nash, G.Lewis 00.00.1998
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1991
#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
#J.Harwood 17.03.1990

Main Area

#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#H.Griffiths, SWMC 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#R.Lawrence, S.Coles 12.07.1992
#S.Coles, R.Lawrence 06.12.1991
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock 24.02.1992
#H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, T.Darlow 26.11.1994
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

#A.Sharp 00.00.1983
#J.Harwood 26.03.1990
#G.Davis 2017
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#A.Eggleton, C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#C.Shorock, M.Chapman 05.11.1994
#G.Ashmore 26.04.1998
#Unknown Pre-1990

Big Black Chimney Area

#G.Lewis 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, G.Lewis, M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#G.Lewis, T.Howell, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd, C.Nash 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#J.Harwood, R.high 17.11.1996
#H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#T.Darlow 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock, M.Chapman 05.10.1994
#Unknown
#C.Shorrock, A.Eggleton 02.01.1994
#Unknown Pre-1990
#G.Williams, J.Harwood 26.09.2002

Trebanog

2017-11-18T22:12:02Z

Alan rosier:

__NOTITLE__
[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

== PREAMBLE ==
A moderately good, pretty solid, low-lying crag, with a sunny aspect and many routes in the lower grades. It can occasionally be windy. Unfortunately there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom of the crag and visits with dogs are probably not wise for this reason. There are plenty of concrete fence posts to belay from at the top of the crag. Due to its relatively low height and easy angle a large number of extremely trivial 'filler ins' have been claimed. As many of these as possible have been included but you will need plumb balls, some string and a ruler to climb them independently.

== ACCESS ==
Take the A4233 to Trebanog, taking the Tonypandy turn off at the traffic lights in the centre of the village. the crag is 200m down the road on the right hand side. If on foot buses run up from Porth.

== DESCENTS ==
It is easy and obvious to walk around either end of the crag.

== THE ROUTES ==
===<div style="text-align: left;"> Left Hand End </div>===

''At the left hand end of the crag is a sharp left hand arête.''

#'''Howell's Arête - HVS, 5a''' If de-vegetated, the arête at the extreme left hand end of the crag is climbed on it's left. 6m 
#'''Howell's Arete Right - HVS,5c''' A good extended boulder problem up the arete on it's right hand side. 6m 
#'''Pete's Boulder Problem - E2, 6b/c''' The brushed wall to the right of the arete. 6m 
#'''Loose Stuff - VS, 4b ''' The vague line of slightly broken cracks at the right hand side of the sheet of solid rock. Poor. 6m 
#'''To The Left - VS, 4b''' Another poor line slightly to the right. 6m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Bolted Overhanging Wall </div>===
[[Image:trebanoh_1.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''One Upmanship - E1, 5c''' On the left hand side of the wall are some thin cracks. Climb them with more difficulty than might be expected! 6m 
#'''March of Progress - Fr. 7a+ *''' The blankest section of rock left of the central hairline crack is gained directly and climbed with a hard crux BR, 2PRs. Using holds in For Your Hands Only reduces the grade. 12m 
#''' For Your Hands Only - Fr. 6c *''' The central crack line. Best to pre-clip bolt No.2 on ''March''. 12m 
#'''Banog's Barmy Army - Fr. 6c+ *''' Straightened out since the first ascent. Start right of For Your Hands Only. BB. 12m 
#'''Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - Fr. 7a''' Start at the line of bolts just to the left of the corner of 'Aunty Pasty'. By avoiding bridging the corner, climb to a break, crux, then pull up to an overlap with a possible rest. Pull left over this, then make a committing stretch for a poor jug. Finish direct to the BB. 12m 
#'''Aunty Pasty - HVS, 4c''' The unlovely corner to the right. 12m 
#'''Unnamed #1 - E1, 5a''' The wall to the right of the corner, swinging right past a missing PR to finish up ''Airplay''. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Main Area </div>===
[[Image:trebanog_main_area_and_overhang.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Air Play - VS, 4b *''' The arête to the right and the crack directly above. 12m 
#'''Playing Away - HVS, 5a''' The wall immediately to the right and the overhanging headwall above the ledge. Very soft for the given grade. 12m 
#'''Bushbaby - HS, 4a''' Start at the left hand side of a hollow in the ground. Climb a line up the to the top. 12m 
#'''Skull Orchard - VS,4c''' A vague line somewhere to the right. 12m 
#'''Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - HVS, 5a''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 11m 
#'''Simon's Crack - S''' The crack to the right. 12m 
#'''S.S.R - D''' The chimney. 11m 
#'''Jaffa Buttress - HVS, 5a *''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 9m 
#'''Terry's Crack - VS, 5a *''' The overhanging crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Heatherette - VS, 5a''' The bounding right hand arête of Terry's Crack provides a couple of almost independent moves. 9m 
#'''Howell's Horror - D''' A nondescript line up the corner of the bay to the right, containing the prominent Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Tankard - HVS, 5a''' The crack to the right of the corner. 9m 
#'''Blagdon - VS, 4c''' The shallow corner bounding the left hand side of the obvious Flat Wall. 11m 
[[Image:trebanog_main_flat_wall.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Flat Wall </div>===

#'''Firewater - Fr. 6b ''' The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m 
#'''Hair Of The Dog - Fr. 7a+ *''' Climb direct up from the sentry box on the Flat Wall. B.B. 11m 
#'''Ethanol - Fr. 6b+''' Follow a line of flakes anticlockwise to the shared B.B. 11m 
#'''Pete of Lancs - Fr. 6c *''' Direct line between ''Blagdon'' and ''Hair of the Dog''. 
#'''Unnamed #2 - VS, 4c?''' The cracks to the right. They don't look VS (insert standard guidebook disclaimer). 11m ''To the right of the Flat Wall and as far as the nose (Ledge Climb) where the crag starts to double back towards the Black Chimney Area are a number of short routes:'' [[Image:trebanog_cheezy_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Barlamb Abuse - D''' The first groove to the right of the Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Shteep - VD''' The cracked arête separating Barlamb Abuse from Gambolling Groove. 11m 
#'''Gambolling Groove - M''' The second groove. 11m 
#'''Vaughan - S''' The vague blunt arête 6m to the right, starting on the left and traversing across to the right and a tricky finishing move. 11m 
#'''Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - VS, 4c *''' To the right of Vaughan, climb the slab and the bulging wall directly above it. 11m 
#'''Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - HVS, 5a/b''' The slab to the right, then step right onto the prominent horizontal platform. Stretch up and make fingery moves past a slot to finish. 11m 
#'''Ledge Climb - VS''' To the right is the arête bounding the area. Go for it, coming in from the left. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Big Black Chimney Area </div>===

#'''Sunday Swing - VS, 4c *''' Climb the wall just right of the arête of L edge Climb to a horizontal break. Traverse right to an enjoyable swing right up to a good crack above the apex of the chimney. Using the start of the next route is a better option with no change in grade. 12m 
#'''Out With The Boys - VS, 4c''' Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney just where the soot starts. At the juggy break swing slightly left and finish direct on big greasy holds. 11m 
#'''Fire Down Below - E2, 5a''' Bridge up the extremely dirty chimney, until a handrail of loose jugs leads left to the finish of the last route. Apart from being a filthy bag, the chimney doubles as inpromptu poo spot and second hand garden furniture depository. 14m 
#'''Kiwis Can't Fly - E1, 5c''' The thin crack in the right hand wall of the chimney finishing up the right hand crack of Sunday Swing. Another poor route. 12m 
#'''I Spy Arête - HS, 4a *''' At last a worthwhile route! The arete to the right of the chimney. 11m [[Image:trebanog_black_chimney_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''I Spy Direct E1, 5b''' The wall to the right. Hidden RPs are available behind the flake above the half height ledge. 9m 
#'''High And Dry - E1, 5a''' The crack line just right. 10m 
#'''Eastend Groove - HS, 4a''' The crack in the left wall of the bay to the right. 9m 
#'''Blood - E1, 5b''' An extremely contrived route up the wall between Eastend Groove and Mick's Little Viper, avoiding gear and holds on either routes. 9m 
#'''Mick's Little Viper - HVS, 5a *''' The clean finger crack in the centre of the wall eats gear. 9m 
#'''Eastend Crack - HS''' The next slightly vegetated crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Desperate Arête - S *''' The arête to the right is very good. 9m ''To the right is another bay:'' 
#'''Decent Route - D''' The cracks in the left wall of the bay. 9m 
#'''Hard Death Rain Down - HS, 4b''' The wall and overhang to the right of Decent Route. 9m 
#'''Unknown Corner - VD''' The right-hand corner of the wall. 9m 
#'''Jo - VS, 4c *''' In the right wall of the bay and the left of the arête is a curving crack which is followed until it is possible to pull out left into a scoop. Continue up the headwall via a protruding block. Good stuff. 9m 
#'''Last Arête - HS, 4c *''' Obvious by name, an excellent little climb. 9m 
#'''Penultimate - HVS, 4c''' The wall immediately right of the last arête. Bold with fragile

===First Ascents===


Left Hand End

#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#P.Lewis 00.00.1995
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990

Overhanging Wall

#M.Learoyd, C.Nash, G.Lewis 00.00.1998
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1991
#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
#J.Harwood 17.03.1990

Main Area

#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#H.Griffiths, SWMC 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#R.Lawrence, S.Coles 12.07.1992
#S.Coles, R.Lawrence 06.12.1991
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock 24.02.1992
#H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, T.Darlow 26.11.1994
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

#A.Sharp 00.00.1983
#J.Harwood 26.03.1990
#G.Davis 2017
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#A.Eggleton, C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#C.Shorock, M.Chapman 05.11.1994
#G.Ashmore 26.04.1998
#Unknown Pre-1990

Big Black Chimney Area

#G.Lewis 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, G.Lewis, M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#G.Lewis, T.Howell, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd, C.Nash 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#J.Harwood, R.high 17.11.1996
#H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#T.Darlow 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock, M.Chapman 05.10.1994
#Unknown
#C.Shorrock, A.Eggleton 02.01.1994
#Unknown Pre-1990
#G.Williams, J.Harwood 26.09.2002

[[Image:Last Arete.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Last Arete, Trebanog. Photo by Oli Buxton]]

Tirpentwys

2017-11-18T22:06:35Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr

2017-11-18T22:04:13Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

New New Tredegar

2017-11-18T22:03:31Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-11-18T22:01:45Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Mountain Ash

2017-11-18T21:59:44Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Llanbradach

2017-11-18T21:57:22Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Gap, The

2017-11-18T21:55:17Z

Alan rosier:

#'''As it Was VS 4b''' Old school as it was complete with gate hinges,scrap iron and scaffold pipe Lower off, climb the first short wall on the left. 8m. 
#'''Kabuto Mushi - Fr. 6a+''' The small wall to the right. 9m. 
#'''Yikes - Fr. 6b+''' Short and fingery. 9m. 
#'''So Uncool - Fr. 6c *''' Right of a sharp little arete is a wall bisected by a diagonal ramp. Fingery and cruxy with poorly positioned bolts. 12m. 
#'''Just Hanging Around - E1, 5b *''' The excellent trad crack in the centre of the wall. Use the BB of ''So Uncool''. 12m. 
#'''Bluster - Fr. 6b *''' The first of two fingery and ever-dry climbs with a shared lower off. 14m. 
#'''Fluster - Fr. 6b *''' Bluster's sister route. Shared lower off. 14m. 
#'''Marlin On The Wall - Fr. 6a+ *''' A much better than first appearances suggest. From the banking follow the BRs past an industrial strength poker. 14m. 
#'''Don't Blame Me Fr. 6b''' To the right of ''Marlin''. Climb direct on edges and incuts to a mallion lower off. 14m. 
#'''Sumo No Shiro - Fr. 6b+''' The dirty looking wall is not without interest. . Climb up to the green cave at 9m and pass the lip with some trepidation, before bombing up the wall to

====Main Wall====

''The left hand side of the main wall has received a highly productive Roy Thomas face lift. The first three routes are centred around the big cave.''

#'''Canine League - Fr. 6a+''' Climb the wall just right of the large corner to a big ledge. Continue directly to an exciting flake and finish directly over the roof, using a handy borehole. 17m. 
#'''Sleeping Dogs Lie - Fr. 6b+ *''' Follow the huge handrail out to the lip of the first roof. Amble up the dirty wall to the right hand end of the roof. Swing round the roof to a shelf. 18m. 
#'''Don't Bark Yet - Fr. 7a''' The new line right of ''Sleeping Dogs Lie''. Hard move pulling out of the cave onto the head wall. 18m. 
#'''Smack My Bitch Up - Fr. 6b+''' Start at the 3 bolts in the right wall of the cave finish on shared belay. 17m. 
#'''Generation Bitch Fr. 6b''' Start as for ''Generation Gap'' at the 2nd bolt pass the bulge and headwall as for the top part of ''Smack My Bitch Up'' to the shared
#'''Generation Gap - Fr. 5+''' Mostly supersceeded by retro bolted variants. 17m. 
#'''Mr. Farady - Fr. 6a''' The original line now fully bolted takes the jammimng crack then the groove above.The easiest warm up is to combine the first part of ''Generation Gap'' then step right into the groove at Fr 5.17m 
#'''Poker In The Eye - Fr. 6a+ **''' There is a series of stepped roofs, with someone’s GCSE metalwork project (they failed!) hammered into it just to the right of the start of ''Mr. Farady''. Climb directly through the overlaps and follow more BRs up to a BB. 17m. 
#'''Grout Expectations - Fr. 6a''' The roof and groove right again. 17m. 
#'''Shackles Of Love - Fr. 6a''' A similar line to the right.Stick clip may be required by the faint hearted. 17m. 
#'''The Frightening Looking Flake - E2, 5c''' Obvious, according to the first ascensionist ‘It’s more of a bag than a route’.Cleaned and reascended recently 18m. 
#'''Ring Of Confidence Fr. 6b *''' Formerly a poorly protected frightener, now a good route which is tough for the grade. The ‘stuck on flake’ down to the right of ''The Frightening Looking Flake'' is followed to a ledge. Interest is maintained on the upper slab. 18m. 
#'''Get Flossed - Fr. 7a+''' Desperate start leads to easier climbing, finish up 'Ring of Confidence'. 17m. ''Many of the harder routes from ''Loctite'' to ''Pleasant Valley Sunday'' have lost holds in the past few years creating slightly harder propositions than in the past. The grades are being reassessed and hopefully a consensus will be reached after a few more ascents.'' 
#'''Loctite - Fr. 7b / 7b+ *''' Right of ''Get Flossed'' wall is a blank-looking wall with a pillar above. Make a very difficult pull up on micro edges to eventually gain the ledge and follow the tower above, BB. The hardest technical move at the Gap. 17m. 
#'''Land Of The Dinosaurs - Fr. 6b''' Up the cracks to the right to a chain at 15m, or better, continue slightly left from the BB to finish up 'Loctite' at Fr.6c. 17m. 
#'''A Momentary Lapse Of Reason - Fr. 7b+ / 7c *''' A controversial route, currently without a finish. Climb the slim wall right of Land Of The Dinosaurs, sustained and fingery, to a (missing spike) ledge and rest. Move up to the roof, and make an awkward move on big slopers to a staple above the roof. Used to avoid the roof by going round to the left and really needs a proper finish, which is thought to be more like Fr.8a. 17m. 
#'''Enter Sandman - Fr.7c+ *''' From the resting ledge above all the difficulties on ''A Momentary Lapse of Reason'', clip the final bolt over the roof (the de-facto lower-off for ''A Momentary Lapse of Reason''). From here, take your choice from the selection of tiny edges to rock-over on to a heel hook, eventually standing up and reaching a "thank god" finishing jug (jump-off on to the last bolt to avoid using the highly suspect lower-off). 20m. 
#'''Rattle Those Tusks - Fr. 6b **''' The second big crack and roof. Probably the best Fr.6's at 'The Gap'. The tusk sadly met its demise in late 1994. 18m. 
#'''Mad At The Sun - Fr. 7c / 7c+ **''' Climb the corner right of Rattle Those Tusks to a small roof. From here, make a very intricate sequence of moves out left to a good two finger hold (crux). Move up and left to a slot, then follow the much easier upper wall to a rest below the roof. More hard moves through the roof lead to the BB. 20m. 
#''' Leave It To Me Fr. 6c''' A new route in between Mad at the Sun & Salmon Running, Bear Cunning. Once a `Big gun show start' (until a lower bolt added), there is fine climbing above to be had using the corner, crack and adjacent left wall. Don't stray onto the right face until the head wall is reached. 14m. 
#'''Salmon Running, Bear Cunning - Fr. 7a *''' Right side of the arete, to a staple lower off. 18m. 
#'''John West - Fr. 7b''' Follow Salmon Running, Bear Cunning past its new BB to the top (rusty looking) chain via a very fingery move. 20m. 
#'''Anything You Can Do - Fr. 7b *''' To the right of the arete a line of BRs goes up past some shot holes, with some seepage generally present in the first 6m. The move through the thin roof at 11m is hard as is the headwall. Land up on a ledge and either walk over to the BR on Salmon Running or do the direct finish. 15m. 
#'''I Can Do Better - Fr. 7b *''' A more logical, but quite nasty direct finish to 'Anything You Can Do'. Feels insecure although is reasonable for the grade (6a). Touch the top of the crag. 20m. 
#'''Encore! Magnifique! - Fr. 7b / 7b+ ***''' An excellent route with reasonable holds throughout, in fact, contrary to the majority of the routes hereabouts, it may have become a little easier with the recent increase of traffic. Climb straight up to the left-hand side of a strip roof at 5m, hand traverse to its right-hand end and make a strenuous lock to gain better holds and a shot hole. From good jugs at the 3rd staple, make tricky moves left or right, then tackle the undercut flake to pockets, edges and the top. Drop back down onto the belay from the top. 21m. 
#'''Pleasant Valley Sunday - Fr. 7b **''' Climb the wall left of the obvious arete at the right-hand side of the main wall. If lanky, make a big stretch from the square pockets to big jugs. If normal make a tricky cross through out left to a short groove, this is entered and exited with extreme difficulty. Continue directly to the lower off chain. 18m. 
#'''One Track Mind - Fr. 7a *''' The impressive right-hand arete of the main wall climbed on its right. 18m. 
#'''Traverse - E3,6a''' For people who have done everything. Start up Ring Of Confidence, then hand traverse the ledge clipping various bits of in situ gear. Continue in the same line into Land Of the Dinosaurs, then move right onto an incut edge on A Momentary Lapse of Reason, which is followed to the iron spike and big sloper. Step right and down to the TR on Rattle Those Tusks, then move across and up the easy section of Mad At The Sun. Pull worryingly up onto the ledge at the top of the Salmon Running, Bear Cunning arete, clip the BR above, then walk across (with serious rope drag) to the finish of I Can Do Better, BB. 35m 

====Right Hand Walls====

''The centre of the wall just to the right of the arete contains a single route.''

#'''Greased Balls - Fr. 6c *''' The stapled wall is excellent. Avoid the temptation of following ''Rain and Tears'' above half height, it could get messy. Used to be a sandbag. 18m. 
#'''Rain And Tears - E1, 5b''' The rarely done corner groove and crack, PR. 18m. 
#'''Full Bag - E2, 5b''' A much better route than it looks (apparently!). Start up the groove right of the corner and head for the crack. PR, BB. 18m. 
#'''Controlled Emission - Fr. 6b+ **''' A popular route and scene of an impressive rockfall over the 2010/2011 winter. Start right of the last groove at a faint upside down scoop taken by a line of staples. Follow this (crux) up and right to a ledge and finish up the fingery wall above to a BB out right. 18m. 
#'''Sperm Wail - Fr. 7a+ *''' Recently reto-bolted but still a bit run out. 18m. 
#'''Scrotum Oil - Fr. 6c *''' Good. Follow the right hand arete of the rectangular wall to a rest at the ledge, then follow the faint scoop to a BB at the top. 18m. 
#'''Naked Truth - HVS, 5a''' The traditional crack to the right feels wobbly. 18m. 
#'''Has the Fat Lady Sung? - Fr. 6b''' The short wall leads to a ledge and shallow cave,pull out of this and proceed carefully up the wall.19m. 
#'''Pick Up The Pieces - Fr. 6a+''' The wall and diagonal flake to the right. 18m. 

====Scoundrels Cave Area====

''The last area to be developed at The Gap. Perfect Scoundrels is good but the other filler routes are unlikely to become classics.''

#'''Retro Butt In - HVS, 5a''' Start left of the obvious cave, and climb the corner, 2BRs until it is possible to step out right to a crack. PR, wires. Finish up this to the BB on the next route. 17m. 
#'''Perfect Scoundrels - Fr. 6b+''' Start in the back of the cave and follow greasy jugs out to the lip. Pull up onto a flat ledge via an arete, TR, and follow the left-hand side of the arete to a BB. 15m. 
#'''Butt Out - Fr. 5+ / 6a''' Start on the right side of the cave, climb past some dubious rock onto grassy ledge then up the head wall. 15m. 
#'''Per Rectum - Fr. 4+''' Slab on right hand side of cave.Share bolts with next route. 7m. 
#'''Stool Sample - Fr. 5''' Just left of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the lower quarry. 7m. 
#'''As It Is - Fr. 5+''' A short route up the right side of arete. 6m. 
#'''Turd Strangler - Fr. 6c''' Last but one route in the lower quarry. 8m. 
#'''Dai Horrea - Fr. 6b''' The last route,some good moves. 7m. 

===The Edge===

200m up to the right of the Lower Quarry is a series of natural sandstone buttresses, which become more continuous
as the Upper Quarry is reached on the right. The first notable feature is a gully. The first route is situated on the stacked
green blocks well to the left of the gully.

#'''Chapeau Verte VS 4c''' The centre of the stacked green(feminine hatted) blocks.8m. 
#'''Blockbuster HVS,5a''' The centre of the blocks on the left side of the gully, taken more or less centrally.8m. 
#'''Always A Molehill HVS,5b''' The left arete of the right side wall of the gully, climbed on the right throughout. PR near the top.6m. 
#'''Once A Molehill HVS,5a''' The wall round to the right between two wide cracks.8m 
#'''Personal Stash E3,6a *''' Left arete of the front face of the wall up a crack, then climb the arete direct(large Friend at top).9m 
#'''Luddites E3,5c *''' The left-hand set of drilled PRs on the front face of the rectangular buttress.9m 
#'''Livin' On A Prayer E6 6c*''' Up the middle,runners at 4m,serious slopy top out,no mats on first ascent.9m. 
#'''Trouble At Mill E3,6a *''' The right-hand set of naughty drilled PRs defines this fingery route.9m. 
#'''Then There Is A Mountain E3,6a''' Climb the wall left of the right arete of buttress to a finger jug at 6m. Make a hard move out to the right arete and finish up it. Unprotected, but with a reasonable landing.Mats weren't invented on first ascent.9m. 
#'''Juggery Pokery 5m E1,6a''' A poor route over the centre of the roof on the short natural buttress round to the right Any deviation from the centremakes things considerably easier than 6a. A large sling is needed for protection.5m. 
''Round to the right is a more continuous wall, which runs into the Upper Quarry. Towards the left side of the wall is
a wide crack (Old Dog).''
#'''Thompson Bank Watch 6m E1,6a''' Scrapes the bottom of the barrel. Climb the narrow wall left of the wide crack without any deviation to either side.Very contrived. 2PRs.6m. 
#'''Old Dog VS,4c''' The apparent offwidth is taken by a series of satisfying jug pulls.6m. 
#'''New Tricks E1,5b''' Gain the arete to the right of Old Dog and follow it to a PR. Move slightly left to finish on good holds (poor Friend).8m. 
#'''Tall Story E2,5b''' Start at the left end of the roof to the right, then undercut right the way round it. Poor gear.12m. 
#'''In Over My Head E3,6b *''' Spectacular and committing. Start below the centre of the big roof on an uncomfortably tall boulder, PR. Climb past a PR (hard), to a rest on undercuts under the roof. Lean off a flake in the roof and hope that the PR is in good shape. This can be backed up with a Friend ½ and 1. Pull spectacularly up to finish. Throw a rope down the back of the roof to belay from the floor!11m. 
#'''Mister Natural E2,5c''' To the right is a pod-like groove. Take this all the way up (harder than it looks) to an easier finish up the slab.12m. 
#'''Surprise, Surprise E1,5c''' Immediately right is a blocky crack. Up this, PR, moving slightly left and up to a hidden flake. Move up and step back right to finish up a groove. 11.69m 
#'''Audio Pornography E3,5c''' Start up the quarried wall to the right, PR. Finish directly up on natural holds (good Friends) to a sloping top out. Belay well back on a large boulder. 9m. 

[[Image:Steve Delaney trying to get gear in on Audio Pornography - E3,5c.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Steve Delaney trying to get gear in on Audio Pornography - E3,5c. Photo by Mark Davies]]

===The Upper Quarry===

Although it can be cold when windy there are some good routes that are shorter in height than their bigger cousins in the Lower Gap. Unless described otherwise the routes belay on the boulders set well back.

[[Image:Upper Gap.jpg|550px|thumb|centre|Upper Gap]]

#'''Gladwyn Tidings HS,4a''' The offwidth at the extreme left-hand side of the quarry. 8m. 
#'''Newton’s Apple- Fr5 *''' A very popular route up the slab to the right. Sling around boulder at the top. 11m. 
#'''Dirty Gerty VS,4c *''' The obvious rounded crack to the right. 12m. 
#'''Acceleration Due To Gravity HVS,4c''' The thinner crack to the right. 12m. 
#'''It’s A Sine Fr6a+''' The bolted slab right again, with a long rockover. Chain belay. 12m. 
#'''Tangent E3,5c''' The slime infested and vegetated corner to the right. A PR may or may not be in situ. 12m. 
#'''Scared Seal Banter Fr7a+''' The wall right of the corner is awkward to on-sight. BB. 14m. 
#'''The Mastic Mick Fr6c''' Climb directly up onto the jug above an overlap and left of the central offwidth of the quarry. Make a stiff pull up to a big pocket, then finish quite easily up the headwall. BB. 14m. 
#'''Cled’s Crack HVS,5a''' Rubbish climbing on big loose jugs up the central off-width of the quarry. Much easier than it looks. Belay on boulders set well back. 14m. 
#'''The Grout Of San Romano Fr6c **''' Sandstone’s first polished route! The wall right of the offwidth has a hard start, with interest well maintained above. 12m. 
#'''Brush Up ''' '''- HVS,5a''' The corner to the right. 12m 
#'''Step Up ''' '''- E1,5a''' The slab right of the corner, via a thin crack. Large Friend low down and PR. 12m 
#'''The Godfather ''' '''- Fr. 6a''' '''*''' The right arete of the quarry. Gain the shelf on its right and teeter up. Swing left and finish up the arete. 12m 
#'''Up Yours ''' '''- Fr. 5+''' '''**''' The arete 3m right again is a superb jug trip, 2PRs. 11m 
#'''Smoothie ''' '''- HVS,5c''' A trivial problem up the front of the wall to the right. PR. 6 
#'''Windy Edge - E1,5b *''' Good. The last arete just round to the right from the quarry, PR. Check out the scenic views down and right. 8m 
#'''Mortar Life - Fr.4+''' The short wall immediately right. 8m 
#'''Shorter Life - Fr.4+''' The short wall passing the twig. 
#'''O Solo Mio - HVS,5b''' Directly facing Windy Edge on the other side of the gap that gives the crag its name, is a short, square buttress. On the left-hand side of its main face is a thin crack, defining this route. 8m 
#'''Chips With Everything ''' '''- E1,5c''' A double helping up the wall right of O Solo Mio, PR. 8m 

[[Image:Upper Gap - right outcrop.jpg|550px|thumb|right|Upper Gap - Right Outcrop]]

==FIRST ASCENTS==



'''Lower Quarry'''

'''Left Wall'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

2. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, A.Japanese 00.00.1993

3. M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 25.03.1990

4. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 06.02.1993

5. R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990

6. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

7. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

8. R.Thomas 00.00.1993

9. Matt Hirst 0000

10. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, A.Japanese 00.00.1993

'''Main Wall'''

# R.Thomas, S.Coles 22.09.1994
# R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# Matt Hirst
# R. Thomas
# Roy Thomas 0000
# G.Royle, R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# R.Thomas 00.00.1992
# R.Thomas 00.00.1993
# G.Gibson 18.06.1994
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 15.07.1989
# R.Thomas, G.Davies, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990
# T.Foster, P.Harding 00.06.1989
# A.Smith, 06.08.2016
# R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1990
# Matt Hirst 0000
# P.Lewis, A.Sharp 17.06.1990
# E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1992
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 17.04.1990
# G.Gibson, R.Thomas 28.06.1992
# M.Crocker, R.Thomas 25.03.1990
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 18.07.1989
# A.Sharp, P.Lewis 11.07.1989

Traverse - C.Evans 04.08.1994

'''Right Hand Walls'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

2. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

3. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

4. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 00.00.1993

5. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 11.04.1990

6. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

7. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 12.08.1990

8. R.Thomas 00.00.2009

9. R.Thomas 00.00.1991

'''Scoundrels Cave Area'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

2. T.Penning, P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1990

G.Gibson - Direct 18.06.1994

3.R.Thomas

4. R.Thomas 00.00.1994

5.Nick O'Neill

6.R.Thomas

7.Matt Hirst

8.R.Thomas

'''The Edge'''

1. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

2. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

3. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

4. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

5. D.Meek 00.00.1985

6. M.Learoyd 00.05.1992

7. Morgan Preecey

8. M.Learoyd 00.05.1992

9. M.Crocker 04.03.1990

10. D.Viggars, P.Donnithorne 06.06.1991

11. Gwent MC 00.00.1995

12. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

13. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

12. P.Thomas, T.Hall 00.00.1987

14. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

15. R.Thomas, M.Crocker, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

16. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

17. M.Crocker, M.Learoyd 04.03.1990

The Upper Quarry

1. Gwent MC 00.00.1995

2. R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990

3. G.Royle, J.Bullock, R.Thomas, Mick Learoyd 00.00.1990

4. G.Royle, J.Bullock, R.Thomas,Mick Learoyd 00.00.1990

5. R.Thomas 05.05.1995

6. P.Thomas 00.00.1988

7. M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 04.03.1990

8. M.Crocker, M.Learoyd 04.03.1990

9. P.Thomas, T.Hall 00.00.1987

10. M.Crocker 04.03.1990

11. R.Thomas, G.Royle, 00.00.1990

12. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

13. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990

14. R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

15. M.Learoyd, J.Bright, G.Royle,R.Thomas 00.00.1990

16. M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990

17. R.Thomas 00.00.1992

18. R Thomas (solo) 00.00.2004

19. M.Learoyd 00.00.1990

20. M.Learoyd 00.00.1994

Edwardsville (X1)

2017-11-18T21:50:18Z

Alan rosier:

1. '''Monkey Business - Fr.6a+ *'''

Bimble up the left side of slab to an airy finishing arete.

2. Flidington Rex - Fr.5+

Poor route moving left to rib from start.

3. Big Bad Baboon - Fr.5+

Shares a start with Flidington Rex. Move right across ' Orangutanatarium' to an arete with a blue sling 'Cone Penetration Test'.

4. '''Orangutarium - Fr.6b *'''

The next route is direct via a line of staples through a technical slab.

5. Cone Penetration Test - Fr.6b+

The arete to reach a tree with a blue sling.

6. '''Remediation Required - Fr.6b'''

The cheesy-looking corner gives steep and interesting climbing.

7. Fisty Nuts (7b+) *

The horizontal roof crack and slab above the lip of the cave.

8. Project

9. Fistula (6c+) ** superb route via twisting crack and easier but fine headwall.

10. Rabbit Proof Fence (6a+) line of staples right of cave to lip of second overhang.

11. Uluru (6a+) pocketed groove just to the right taking roof on right.

12. Cox 2 Inhibitor (6b+) * Direct behind larch tree via pockets and tricky bulge.

Proton Pump (6a) Shallow groove with steep bulge

13. Voltarol Vigour (6a) line of staples to right to higher lower-off.

14. Sucking Dick's Lofenac (5+) the left-hand side of the slab right of the corner.

15. Co-Codamol Crunch (5+) right side of slab to same lower-off.

16. Tramadol Trip (6a) * pockets in a faint groove left of a slanting crack.

17. Paracetamol Punch (6b) Pockets to start to gain slab with a bulge above.

18. Ed Less (6a) Deep pocket to pass overhang then slab above.

19. Guillotine (5+) corner above earth bank.

20. Final Cut (6b) R of earth bank. Up left to a pocket then tricky move to slabby arete.

Primal Cut (6b) short wall to 'stand up' finale.

Unnamed (6b) difficult start to ledge then easy.

21. '''The Puddling Fr.6a *'''

Scooped wall to overhangs, sharp arete and crack above. Unfortunately the lower off is well below crag standard.

22. '''Ed More Fr.5'''

Rounded slab work, worthwhile. Unfortunately shares a lower off with ''The Puddling''.

23. '''Aqua Mule Show Fr. 5'''

V groove, short slab and rib above overlap.

24. '''Known only Unto God Fr.6a+'''

Easy start to face with hard finale to belay.

25. '''Oolacunta Fr.6a'''

High blunt arete.

26. '''Uber Gruppen Fuhrer Fr.4'''

Easy slab. Staples on terrace above for those wishing to top out.

There are three further routes over to the right, tucked in behind some trees on '''Drift Mine Wall''':

1. '''Daddy's Little Lemon Licker Fr. 6a'''

Start right of mine entrance. Up and left to lower-off.

2. '''Get Nutted E2 5c'''

Twin diagonal cracks.

2. '''Homme de L'elephant

1. '''Polari Cartso - Fr.5+'''

Tricky start on undercut slab, past tree with sling.

2. '''Rhondda Tan - Fr.5'''

Slab with horizontal breaks

3. '''Steroid Vest - Fr.6a'''

More Slab Climbing

4. '''Back to Black - Fr.5+'''

Wide Crack - still a little loose and eliminate.

5. '''Johnny Bionc - 6a'''

Better. Finger jams in vertical crack to gain slab

6. '''Slabadabadoo - Fr.5'''

Slab to oversized lower-off chain

7. '''Fisting the night away - Fr.5+'''

Entertaining. The twisting crack

1. '''Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+'''

Left hand line with a peg low down. Gets better towards the top.

2. '''Monkey Stole My Face - Fr.6a+ *'''

Central leaning crack line. Good dynamic fun.

3. '''Balls of Domoclese - Fr.6b *'''

Start in 'V' groove and rock over leftwards onto the slab using slopey crimps, technical.

''R. Thomas 2008''

[[File:Edwardsville - Upper Tier.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Edwardsville - Upper ]]

1. '''A Dream of Wet Rabbits - Fr.5'''

To same LO as Boy George V.

2. '''Boy George V - Fr.6a'''

Surmount the giant egg to a ledge.

3. '''Rent Boys and Radiators - (XS) Fr.6a+'''

A poor route but much cleaner than previously.

4. '''We Like Hot Beaver - (6a)'''

Another adventure through questionable rock - But improved since previously

''R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 2009''

5. '''Hot Little Minx - (6a)'''

to different LO

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 01 May 2009''

6. '''The Pleasant Mount - (6c)'''

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 01 May 2009''

7. '''Mounting at the Edge - (6b)'''

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 02 May 2009''

8. '''Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - (6b)'''

Up Arete to hard-to-clip belay

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

9. '''Poke Her Face - (5+)'''

Surprisingly delicate ascent of arete.

''D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

====Right Hand Area====

1. '''Over the Top - Fr.6a'''

Climb a bulge and then a slab above ledge. Awkward to clip the lower off.

2. '''Bull Camp - Fr.6a'''

To lower-off on right of roof.

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

3. '''I love valleys girls Fr.6a (& Bull Camp Fr.5+)'''

Continuation of Bull Camp - Steep climbing on the left of Henry Allingham following a good line of bolts to a slab high up . Climb through the shale band and over the last overhang to reach a good lower off situated back. 15m

''S. Delany 2009''

4. '''...but I couldn't eat a whole one - Fr.6a'''

A link up. Climb Henry Allingham but finish up left passing a small tree to the small roof. Finish as for 'I love ...' 10m

5. '''Henry Allingham - Fr.5c'''

The left hand groove line to the roof, then move out right to an exposed mantle shelf finish. Henry Allingham was the oldest WW1 soldier still alive at the time of the first ascent (trench warfare). 10m.

6. '''Harry Patch - Fr.6a+'''

The slab and exposed finish to the lower off on the roof right of Henry A. Harry patch was the oldest living RAF officer from WW1. 10m

7. '''Chloe's Crack - Fr.5+'''

Located on the far right of the crags upper tier there is a slanting crack/open groove below an overhanging lower off. Climb onto the ledge of Harry Patch, move right to the groove and follow the obvious cleaned crack to the lower off in the overhanging top-out. A great climb to practice using traditional protection i.e. nuts/cams as well as clipping the bolts. In fact the nervous leader may need to after the last bolt! 10m

8 '''Emiliano Mercado del Toro - Fr.5+'''

The arête to the right of Chloe's Crack. In name of the oldest authenticated military veteran, from any conflict, ever to have lived. 10m

There is some loose rock before the next two routes:

9. '''Bonaroo Lally Tappers - Fr.5+'''

The slabby face to the left of the final arete in the right of the quarry.

10. '''Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - Fr.6a'''

Right of the final arete in the right of the quarry. Climb deep crack and hand traverse to finish up slab

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.11.2008

2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.00.2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

6. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

7. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Drift Mine Area'''

1. D. Emanuel 00.00.2009

2. R. Thomas 00.00. 2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, K. Davies 00.00.2008

'''Undercut Slabs Area'''

1. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2009

3. R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Crud Area'''

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

2. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

'''Right Hand Area'''

1. D. Emanuel? R. Thomas? G. Gibson? May 2009

2. Steven Delaney & Chloe Whittall Sept 2009

3. R. Thomas, G. Gibson, D. Emanuel June 2009

4. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

5. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

6. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 11.03.2009

7. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 11.03.2009

8. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 01.04.2009

9. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009

10. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas,

Edwardsville (X1)

2017-11-18T21:49:23Z

Alan rosier:

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

==BOLTING POLICY==
.

==ACCESS==

From the south, follow the A4054 through Edwardsville until Mount Pleasant is reached. It is recommended that one parks on the southern side of the village of Mount Pleasant.

Walk south along the A4054 until two tracks are seen which lead uphill into the forest. Follow the second and southerly track (in poorer condition than the northern track which leads to Mount Pleasant Crag - X2)upwards past a rusty gate to the lower tier of the quarry.

See Map at bottom of page.

==DESCENTS==

All current routes have lower offs that enable the start position to be gained. Access can be made to the upper tier by a path located at both ends of the lower tier. Going right past the drift mine is probably the better option for a first tie visitor.
Should you require access to the top of the upper tier there is a well trodden path that winds it's way to the top on the left of the lower
1. '''Monkey Business - Fr.6a+ *'''

Bimble up the left side of slab to an airy finishing arete.

2. Flidington Rex - Fr.5+

Poor route moving left to rib from start.

3. Big Bad Baboon - Fr.5+

Shares a start with Flidington Rex. Move right across ' Orangutanatarium' to an arete with a blue sling 'Cone Penetration Test'.

4. '''Orangutarium - Fr.6b *'''

The next route is direct via a line of staples through a technical slab.

5. Cone Penetration Test - Fr.6b+

The arete to reach a tree with a blue sling.

6. '''Remediation Required - Fr.6b'''

The cheesy-looking corner gives steep and interesting climbing.

7. Fisty Nuts (7b+) *

The horizontal roof crack and slab above the lip of the cave.

8. Project

9. Fistula (6c+) ** superb route via twisting crack and easier but fine headwall.

10. Rabbit Proof Fence (6a+) line of staples right of cave to lip of second overhang.

11. Uluru (6a+) pocketed groove just to the right taking roof on right.

12. Cox 2 Inhibitor (6b+) * Direct behind larch tree via pockets and tricky bulge.

Proton Pump (6a) Shallow groove with steep bulge

13. Voltarol Vigour (6a) line of staples to right to higher lower-off.

14. Sucking Dick's Lofenac (5+) the left-hand side of the slab right of the corner.

15. Co-Codamol Crunch (5+) right side of slab to same lower-off.

16. Tramadol Trip (6a) * pockets in a faint groove left of a slanting crack.

17. Paracetamol Punch (6b) Pockets to start to gain slab with a bulge above.

18. Ed Less (6a) Deep pocket to pass overhang then slab above.

19. Guillotine (5+) corner above earth bank.

20. Final Cut (6b) R of earth bank. Up left to a pocket then tricky move to slabby arete.

Primal Cut (6b) short wall to 'stand up' finale.

Unnamed (6b) difficult start to ledge then easy.

21. '''The Puddling Fr.6a *'''

Scooped wall to overhangs, sharp arete and crack above. Unfortunately the lower off is well below crag standard.

22. '''Ed More Fr.5'''

Rounded slab work, worthwhile. Unfortunately shares a lower off with ''The Puddling''.

23. '''Aqua Mule Show Fr. 5'''

V groove, short slab and rib above overlap.

24. '''Known only Unto God Fr.6a+'''

Easy start to face with hard finale to belay.

25. '''Oolacunta Fr.6a'''

High blunt arete.

26. '''Uber Gruppen Fuhrer Fr.4'''

Easy slab. Staples on terrace above for those wishing to top out.

There are three further routes over to the right, tucked in behind some trees on '''Drift Mine Wall''':

1. '''Daddy's Little Lemon Licker Fr. 6a'''

Start right of mine entrance. Up and left to lower-off.

2. '''Get Nutted E2 5c'''

Twin diagonal cracks.

2. '''Homme de L'elephant

1. '''Polari Cartso - Fr.5+'''

Tricky start on undercut slab, past tree with sling.

2. '''Rhondda Tan - Fr.5'''

Slab with horizontal breaks

3. '''Steroid Vest - Fr.6a'''

More Slab Climbing

4. '''Back to Black - Fr.5+'''

Wide Crack - still a little loose and eliminate.

5. '''Johnny Bionc - 6a'''

Better. Finger jams in vertical crack to gain slab

6. '''Slabadabadoo - Fr.5'''

Slab to oversized lower-off chain

7. '''Fisting the night away - Fr.5+'''

Entertaining. The twisting crack

1. '''Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+'''

Left hand line with a peg low down. Gets better towards the top.

2. '''Monkey Stole My Face - Fr.6a+ *'''

Central leaning crack line. Good dynamic fun.

3. '''Balls of Domoclese - Fr.6b *'''

Start in 'V' groove and rock over leftwards onto the slab using slopey crimps, technical.

''R. Thomas 2008''

[[File:Edwardsville - Upper Tier.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Edwardsville - Upper ]]

1. '''A Dream of Wet Rabbits - Fr.5'''

To same LO as Boy George V.

2. '''Boy George V - Fr.6a'''

Surmount the giant egg to a ledge.

3. '''Rent Boys and Radiators - (XS) Fr.6a+'''

A poor route but much cleaner than previously.

4. '''We Like Hot Beaver - (6a)'''

Another adventure through questionable rock - But improved since previously

''R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 2009''

5. '''Hot Little Minx - (6a)'''

to different LO

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 01 May 2009''

6. '''The Pleasant Mount - (6c)'''

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 01 May 2009''

7. '''Mounting at the Edge - (6b)'''

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 02 May 2009''

8. '''Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - (6b)'''

Up Arete to hard-to-clip belay

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

9. '''Poke Her Face - (5+)'''

Surprisingly delicate ascent of arete.

''D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

====Right Hand Area====

1. '''Over the Top - Fr.6a'''

Climb a bulge and then a slab above ledge. Awkward to clip the lower off.

2. '''Bull Camp - Fr.6a'''

To lower-off on right of roof.

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

3. '''I love valleys girls Fr.6a (& Bull Camp Fr.5+)'''

Continuation of Bull Camp - Steep climbing on the left of Henry Allingham following a good line of bolts to a slab high up . Climb through the shale band and over the last overhang to reach a good lower off situated back. 15m

''S. Delany 2009''

4. '''...but I couldn't eat a whole one - Fr.6a'''

A link up. Climb Henry Allingham but finish up left passing a small tree to the small roof. Finish as for 'I love ...' 10m

5. '''Henry Allingham - Fr.5c'''

The left hand groove line to the roof, then move out right to an exposed mantle shelf finish. Henry Allingham was the oldest WW1 soldier still alive at the time of the first ascent (trench warfare). 10m.

6. '''Harry Patch - Fr.6a+'''

The slab and exposed finish to the lower off on the roof right of Henry A. Harry patch was the oldest living RAF officer from WW1. 10m

7. '''Chloe's Crack - Fr.5+'''

Located on the far right of the crags upper tier there is a slanting crack/open groove below an overhanging lower off. Climb onto the ledge of Harry Patch, move right to the groove and follow the obvious cleaned crack to the lower off in the overhanging top-out. A great climb to practice using traditional protection i.e. nuts/cams as well as clipping the bolts. In fact the nervous leader may need to after the last bolt! 10m

8 '''Emiliano Mercado del Toro - Fr.5+'''

The arête to the right of Chloe's Crack. In name of the oldest authenticated military veteran, from any conflict, ever to have lived. 10m

There is some loose rock before the next two routes:

9. '''Bonaroo Lally Tappers - Fr.5+'''

The slabby face to the left of the final arete in the right of the quarry.

10. '''Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - Fr.6a'''

Right of the final arete in the right of the quarry. Climb deep crack and hand traverse to finish up slab

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.11.2008

2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.00.2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

6. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

7. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Drift Mine Area'''

1. D. Emanuel 00.00.2009

2. R. Thomas 00.00. 2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, K. Davies 00.00.2008

'''Undercut Slabs Area'''

1. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2009

3. R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Crud Area'''

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

2. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

'''Right Hand Area'''

1. D. Emanuel? R. Thomas? G. Gibson? May 2009

2. Steven Delaney & Chloe Whittall Sept 2009

3. R. Thomas, G. Gibson, D. Emanuel June 2009

4. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

5. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

6. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 11.03.2009

7. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 11.03.2009

8. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 01.04.2009

9. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009

10. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas,

Edwardsville (X1)

2017-11-18T21:47:19Z

Alan rosier: /* PREAMBLE */

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

==BOLTING POLICY==
.

==ACCESS==

From the south, follow the A4054 through Edwardsville until Mount Pleasant is reached. It is recommended that one parks on the southern side of the village of Mount Pleasant.

Walk south along the A4054 until two tracks are seen which lead uphill into the forest. Follow the second and southerly track (in poorer condition than the northern track which leads to Mount Pleasant Crag - X2)upwards past a rusty gate to the lower tier of the quarry.

See Map at bottom of page.

==DESCENTS==

All current routes have lower offs that enable the start position to be gained. Access can be made to the upper tier by a path located at both ends of the lower tier. Going right past the drift mine is probably the better option for a first tie visitor.
Should you require access to the top of the upper tier there is a well trodden path that winds it's way to the top on the left of the lower tier. Lovely views but BEWARE of loose rock and climbers below!

==ROUTES==

===LOWER TIER===

====Fertility Cave area====

The left hand side of the lower tier sports an impressive cave. The routes are described from the left starting on slabs just outside the cave proper.

1. '''Monkey Business - Fr.6a+ *'''

Bimble up the left side of slab to an airy finishing arete.

2. Flidington Rex - Fr.5+

Poor route moving left to rib from start.

3. Big Bad Baboon - Fr.5+

Shares a start with Flidington Rex. Move right across ' Orangutanatarium' to an arete with a blue sling 'Cone Penetration Test'.

4. '''Orangutarium - Fr.6b *'''

The next route is direct via a line of staples through a technical slab.

5. Cone Penetration Test - Fr.6b+

The arete to reach a tree with a blue sling.

6. '''Remediation Required - Fr.6b'''

The cheesy-looking corner gives steep and interesting climbing.

7. Fisty Nuts (7b+) *

The horizontal roof crack and slab above the lip of the cave.

8. Project

9. Fistula (6c+) ** superb route via twisting crack and easier but fine headwall.

10. Rabbit Proof Fence (6a+) line of staples right of cave to lip of second overhang.

11. Uluru (6a+) pocketed groove just to the right taking roof on right.

12. Cox 2 Inhibitor (6b+) * Direct behind larch tree via pockets and tricky bulge.

Proton Pump (6a) Shallow groove with steep bulge

13. Voltarol Vigour (6a) line of staples to right to higher lower-off.

14. Sucking Dick's Lofenac (5+) the left-hand side of the slab right of the corner.

15. Co-Codamol Crunch (5+) right side of slab to same lower-off.

16. Tramadol Trip (6a) * pockets in a faint groove left of a slanting crack.

====Right Hand Slabs====

17. Paracetamol Punch (6b) Pockets to start to gain slab with a bulge above.

18. Ed Less (6a) Deep pocket to pass overhang then slab above.

19. Guillotine (5+) corner above earth bank.

20. Final Cut (6b) R of earth bank. Up left to a pocket then tricky move to slabby arete.

Primal Cut (6b) short wall to 'stand up' finale.

Unnamed (6b) difficult start to ledge then easy.

21. '''The Puddling Fr.6a *'''

Scooped wall to overhangs, sharp arete and crack above. Unfortunately the lower off is well below crag standard.

22. '''Ed More Fr.5'''

Rounded slab work, worthwhile. Unfortunately shares a lower off with ''The Puddling''.

23. '''Aqua Mule Show Fr. 5'''

V groove, short slab and rib above overlap.

24. '''Known only Unto God Fr.6a+'''

Easy start to face with hard finale to belay.

25. '''Oolacunta Fr.6a'''

High blunt arete.

26. '''Uber Gruppen Fuhrer Fr.4'''

Easy slab. Staples on terrace above for those wishing to top out.

There are three further routes over to the right, tucked in behind some trees on '''Drift Mine Wall''':

1. '''Daddy's Little Lemon Licker Fr. 6a'''

Start right of mine entrance. Up and left to lower-off.

2. '''Get Nutted E2 5c'''

Twin diagonal cracks.

2. '''Homme de L'elephant Fr.5+'''

A line of staples to the right.

===UPPER TIER===

====Left Hand Slabs====

On the left side of the Upper Tier is a raised platform, above which are a series of slabs 'Stanage-like' at first appearance. The routes get progressively better rightwards.

1. '''Polari Cartso - Fr.5+'''

Tricky start on undercut slab, past tree with sling.

2. '''Rhondda Tan - Fr.5'''

Slab with horizontal breaks

3. '''Steroid Vest - Fr.6a'''

More Slab Climbing

4. '''Back to Black - Fr.5+'''

Wide Crack - still a little loose and eliminate.

5. '''Johnny Bionc - 6a'''

Better. Finger jams in vertical crack to gain slab

6. '''Slabadabadoo - Fr.5'''

Slab to oversized lower-off chain

7. '''Fisting the night away - Fr.5+'''

Entertaining. The twisting crack

====Undercut Slabs Area====

The high undercut slab contains three of the best routes hereabout.

1. '''Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+'''

Left hand line with a peg low down. Gets better towards the top.

2. '''Monkey Stole My Face - Fr.6a+ *'''

Central leaning crack line. Good dynamic fun.

3. '''Balls of Domoclese - Fr.6b *'''

Start in 'V' groove and rock over leftwards onto the slab using slopey crimps, technical.

''R. Thomas 2008''

[[File:Edwardsville - Upper Tier.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Edwardsville - Upper Tier]]

====Crud Area====

Reasons not to climb near blast holes soon become apparent.

1. '''A Dream of Wet Rabbits - Fr.5'''

To same LO as Boy George V.

2. '''Boy George V - Fr.6a'''

Surmount the giant egg to a ledge.

3. '''Rent Boys and Radiators - (XS) Fr.6a+'''

A poor route but much cleaner than previously.

4. '''We Like Hot Beaver - (6a)'''

Another adventure through questionable rock - But improved since previously

''R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 2009''

5. '''Hot Little Minx - (6a)'''

to different LO

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 01 May 2009''

6. '''The Pleasant Mount - (6c)'''

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 01 May 2009''

7. '''Mounting at the Edge - (6b)'''

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 02 May 2009''

8. '''Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - (6b)'''

Up Arete to hard-to-clip belay

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

9. '''Poke Her Face - (5+)'''

Surprisingly delicate ascent of arete.

''D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

====Right Hand Area====

1. '''Over the Top - Fr.6a'''

Climb a bulge and then a slab above ledge. Awkward to clip the lower off.

2. '''Bull Camp - Fr.6a'''

To lower-off on right of roof.

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

3. '''I love valleys girls Fr.6a (& Bull Camp Fr.5+)'''

Continuation of Bull Camp - Steep climbing on the left of Henry Allingham following a good line of bolts to a slab high up . Climb through the shale band and over the last overhang to reach a good lower off situated back. 15m

''S. Delany 2009''

4. '''...but I couldn't eat a whole one - Fr.6a'''

A link up. Climb Henry Allingham but finish up left passing a small tree to the small roof. Finish as for 'I love ...' 10m

5. '''Henry Allingham - Fr.5c'''

The left hand groove line to the roof, then move out right to an exposed mantle shelf finish. Henry Allingham was the oldest WW1 soldier still alive at the time of the first ascent (trench warfare). 10m.

6. '''Harry Patch - Fr.6a+'''

The slab and exposed finish to the lower off on the roof right of Henry A. Harry patch was the oldest living RAF officer from WW1. 10m

7. '''Chloe's Crack - Fr.5+'''

Located on the far right of the crags upper tier there is a slanting crack/open groove below an overhanging lower off. Climb onto the ledge of Harry Patch, move right to the groove and follow the obvious cleaned crack to the lower off in the overhanging top-out. A great climb to practice using traditional protection i.e. nuts/cams as well as clipping the bolts. In fact the nervous leader may need to after the last bolt! 10m

8 '''Emiliano Mercado del Toro - Fr.5+'''

The arête to the right of Chloe's Crack. In name of the oldest authenticated military veteran, from any conflict, ever to have lived. 10m

There is some loose rock before the next two routes:

9. '''Bonaroo Lally Tappers - Fr.5+'''

The slabby face to the left of the final arete in the right of the quarry.

10. '''Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - Fr.6a'''

Right of the final arete in the right of the quarry. Climb deep crack and hand traverse to finish up slab above.

==FIRST ASCENTS==



'''UPPER TIER'''

'''Left Hand Slabs'''

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.11.2008

2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.00.2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

6. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

7. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Drift Mine Area'''

1. D. Emanuel 00.00.2009

2. R. Thomas 00.00. 2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, K. Davies 00.00.2008

'''Undercut Slabs Area'''

1. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2009

3. R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Crud Area'''

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

2. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

'''Right Hand Area'''

1. D. Emanuel? R. Thomas? G. Gibson? May 2009

2. Steven Delaney & Chloe Whittall Sept 2009

3. R. Thomas, G. Gibson, D. Emanuel June 2009

4. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

5. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

6. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 11.03.2009

7. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 11.03.2009

8. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 01.04.2009

9. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009

10. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009



==MAP==

The crag located at 51°40'19.75"N / 3°19'35.68"W as shown:

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="51.676743" lon="-3.332103" zoom="15">
(A) 51.672216, -3.326561
Edwardsville X1
51.67695, -3.332258
Parking at Edwardsville
</googlemap>

Edwardsville (X1)

2017-11-18T21:46:40Z

Alan rosier:

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

==BOLTING POLICY==
.

==PREAMBLE==

A compact sports quarry located high on the mountain near Mount Pleasant. The quarry faces west and is quick drying with all-day sun. A good summer evening venue!

The landowner, his wife and their burly son has spotted climbers while clearing a route on the top tier. After mentioning the quarry is up for sale for a mere 20million, or was it just two?, they expressed concerns about people climbing there due to possible claims against them and also advised people stop climbing there until they received clarification.
They have been referred to the BMC and the access rep has also been informed via a phone call.

[[Image:mount pleasant.jpg|800px|thumb|centre]]

==ACCESS==

From the south, follow the A4054 through Edwardsville until Mount Pleasant is reached. It is recommended that one parks on the southern side of the village of Mount Pleasant.

Walk south along the A4054 until two tracks are seen which lead uphill into the forest. Follow the second and southerly track (in poorer condition than the northern track which leads to Mount Pleasant Crag - X2)upwards past a rusty gate to the lower tier of the quarry.

See Map at bottom of page.

==DESCENTS==

All current routes have lower offs that enable the start position to be gained. Access can be made to the upper tier by a path located at both ends of the lower tier. Going right past the drift mine is probably the better option for a first tie visitor.
Should you require access to the top of the upper tier there is a well trodden path that winds it's way to the top on the left of the lower tier. Lovely views but BEWARE of loose rock and climbers below!

==ROUTES==

===LOWER TIER===

====Fertility Cave area====

The left hand side of the lower tier sports an impressive cave. The routes are described from the left starting on slabs just outside the cave proper.

1. '''Monkey Business - Fr.6a+ *'''

Bimble up the left side of slab to an airy finishing arete.

2. Flidington Rex - Fr.5+

Poor route moving left to rib from start.

3. Big Bad Baboon - Fr.5+

Shares a start with Flidington Rex. Move right across ' Orangutanatarium' to an arete with a blue sling 'Cone Penetration Test'.

4. '''Orangutarium - Fr.6b *'''

The next route is direct via a line of staples through a technical slab.

5. Cone Penetration Test - Fr.6b+

The arete to reach a tree with a blue sling.

6. '''Remediation Required - Fr.6b'''

The cheesy-looking corner gives steep and interesting climbing.

7. Fisty Nuts (7b+) *

The horizontal roof crack and slab above the lip of the cave.

8. Project

9. Fistula (6c+) ** superb route via twisting crack and easier but fine headwall.

10. Rabbit Proof Fence (6a+) line of staples right of cave to lip of second overhang.

11. Uluru (6a+) pocketed groove just to the right taking roof on right.

12. Cox 2 Inhibitor (6b+) * Direct behind larch tree via pockets and tricky bulge.

Proton Pump (6a) Shallow groove with steep bulge

13. Voltarol Vigour (6a) line of staples to right to higher lower-off.

14. Sucking Dick's Lofenac (5+) the left-hand side of the slab right of the corner.

15. Co-Codamol Crunch (5+) right side of slab to same lower-off.

16. Tramadol Trip (6a) * pockets in a faint groove left of a slanting crack.

====Right Hand Slabs====

17. Paracetamol Punch (6b) Pockets to start to gain slab with a bulge above.

18. Ed Less (6a) Deep pocket to pass overhang then slab above.

19. Guillotine (5+) corner above earth bank.

20. Final Cut (6b) R of earth bank. Up left to a pocket then tricky move to slabby arete.

Primal Cut (6b) short wall to 'stand up' finale.

Unnamed (6b) difficult start to ledge then easy.

21. '''The Puddling Fr.6a *'''

Scooped wall to overhangs, sharp arete and crack above. Unfortunately the lower off is well below crag standard.

22. '''Ed More Fr.5'''

Rounded slab work, worthwhile. Unfortunately shares a lower off with ''The Puddling''.

23. '''Aqua Mule Show Fr. 5'''

V groove, short slab and rib above overlap.

24. '''Known only Unto God Fr.6a+'''

Easy start to face with hard finale to belay.

25. '''Oolacunta Fr.6a'''

High blunt arete.

26. '''Uber Gruppen Fuhrer Fr.4'''

Easy slab. Staples on terrace above for those wishing to top out.

There are three further routes over to the right, tucked in behind some trees on '''Drift Mine Wall''':

1. '''Daddy's Little Lemon Licker Fr. 6a'''

Start right of mine entrance. Up and left to lower-off.

2. '''Get Nutted E2 5c'''

Twin diagonal cracks.

2. '''Homme de L'elephant Fr.5+'''

A line of staples to the right.

===UPPER TIER===

====Left Hand Slabs====

On the left side of the Upper Tier is a raised platform, above which are a series of slabs 'Stanage-like' at first appearance. The routes get progressively better rightwards.

1. '''Polari Cartso - Fr.5+'''

Tricky start on undercut slab, past tree with sling.

2. '''Rhondda Tan - Fr.5'''

Slab with horizontal breaks

3. '''Steroid Vest - Fr.6a'''

More Slab Climbing

4. '''Back to Black - Fr.5+'''

Wide Crack - still a little loose and eliminate.

5. '''Johnny Bionc - 6a'''

Better. Finger jams in vertical crack to gain slab

6. '''Slabadabadoo - Fr.5'''

Slab to oversized lower-off chain

7. '''Fisting the night away - Fr.5+'''

Entertaining. The twisting crack

====Undercut Slabs Area====

The high undercut slab contains three of the best routes hereabout.

1. '''Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy - Fr.6a+'''

Left hand line with a peg low down. Gets better towards the top.

2. '''Monkey Stole My Face - Fr.6a+ *'''

Central leaning crack line. Good dynamic fun.

3. '''Balls of Domoclese - Fr.6b *'''

Start in 'V' groove and rock over leftwards onto the slab using slopey crimps, technical.

''R. Thomas 2008''

[[File:Edwardsville - Upper Tier.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Edwardsville - Upper Tier]]

====Crud Area====

Reasons not to climb near blast holes soon become apparent.

1. '''A Dream of Wet Rabbits - Fr.5'''

To same LO as Boy George V.

2. '''Boy George V - Fr.6a'''

Surmount the giant egg to a ledge.

3. '''Rent Boys and Radiators - (XS) Fr.6a+'''

A poor route but much cleaner than previously.

4. '''We Like Hot Beaver - (6a)'''

Another adventure through questionable rock - But improved since previously

''R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 2009''

5. '''Hot Little Minx - (6a)'''

to different LO

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 01 May 2009''

6. '''The Pleasant Mount - (6c)'''

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 01 May 2009''

7. '''Mounting at the Edge - (6b)'''

''G. Gibson, R. Thomas 02 May 2009''

8. '''Man in Honda over yonder in Rhondda - (6b)'''

Up Arete to hard-to-clip belay

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

9. '''Poke Her Face - (5+)'''

Surprisingly delicate ascent of arete.

''D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

====Right Hand Area====

1. '''Over the Top - Fr.6a'''

Climb a bulge and then a slab above ledge. Awkward to clip the lower off.

2. '''Bull Camp - Fr.6a'''

To lower-off on right of roof.

''R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02 May 2009''

3. '''I love valleys girls Fr.6a (& Bull Camp Fr.5+)'''

Continuation of Bull Camp - Steep climbing on the left of Henry Allingham following a good line of bolts to a slab high up . Climb through the shale band and over the last overhang to reach a good lower off situated back. 15m

''S. Delany 2009''

4. '''...but I couldn't eat a whole one - Fr.6a'''

A link up. Climb Henry Allingham but finish up left passing a small tree to the small roof. Finish as for 'I love ...' 10m

5. '''Henry Allingham - Fr.5c'''

The left hand groove line to the roof, then move out right to an exposed mantle shelf finish. Henry Allingham was the oldest WW1 soldier still alive at the time of the first ascent (trench warfare). 10m.

6. '''Harry Patch - Fr.6a+'''

The slab and exposed finish to the lower off on the roof right of Henry A. Harry patch was the oldest living RAF officer from WW1. 10m

7. '''Chloe's Crack - Fr.5+'''

Located on the far right of the crags upper tier there is a slanting crack/open groove below an overhanging lower off. Climb onto the ledge of Harry Patch, move right to the groove and follow the obvious cleaned crack to the lower off in the overhanging top-out. A great climb to practice using traditional protection i.e. nuts/cams as well as clipping the bolts. In fact the nervous leader may need to after the last bolt! 10m

8 '''Emiliano Mercado del Toro - Fr.5+'''

The arête to the right of Chloe's Crack. In name of the oldest authenticated military veteran, from any conflict, ever to have lived. 10m

There is some loose rock before the next two routes:

9. '''Bonaroo Lally Tappers - Fr.5+'''

The slabby face to the left of the final arete in the right of the quarry.

10. '''Meat Fly vs The Custard Cannon - Fr.6a'''

Right of the final arete in the right of the quarry. Climb deep crack and hand traverse to finish up slab above.

==FIRST ASCENTS==



'''UPPER TIER'''

'''Left Hand Slabs'''

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.11.2008

2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 00.00.2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

6. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

7. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Drift Mine Area'''

1. D. Emanuel 00.00.2009

2. R. Thomas 00.00. 2008

3. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, K. Davies 00.00.2008

'''Undercut Slabs Area'''

1. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

2. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2009

3. R. Thomas 00.00.2008

'''Crud Area'''

1. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 00.00.2008

2. R. Thomas 00.00.2009

'''Right Hand Area'''

1. D. Emanuel? R. Thomas? G. Gibson? May 2009

2. Steven Delaney & Chloe Whittall Sept 2009

3. R. Thomas, G. Gibson, D. Emanuel June 2009

4. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

5. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 01.04.2009

6. Gary Lewis & Steven Delaney 11.03.2009

7. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 11.03.2009

8. Steven Delaney & Gary Lewis 01.04.2009

9. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009

10. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas, G. Gibson 02.05.2009



==MAP==

The crag located at 51°40'19.75"N / 3°19'35.68"W as shown:

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="51.676743" lon="-3.332103" zoom="15">
(A) 51.672216, -3.326561
Edwardsville X1
51.67695, -3.332258
Parking at Edwardsville
</googlemap>

Deri

2017-11-18T21:43:55Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Darren, The

2017-11-18T21:42:46Z

Alan rosier: Replaced content with " The Left Hand Bay Middle Alcove Image:The Dar..."

Cwmcarn

2017-11-18T21:37:44Z

Alan rosier: Blanked the page

Cwmaman Main

2017-11-18T21:34:35Z

Alan rosier:

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR SS 995 992

== PREAMBLE ==
'''Also see [[Cwmaman West]]'''.

Seepage aside, Cwmaman will always be well worth a visit come what may. It was certainly regarded it as one of the better sandstone crags in SE.Wales in the late eighties. It is seen as a positive attribute rather than an impediment that local wisdom retains traditional routes alongside sport/clip-up climbs, thus preserving the true nature of a place and its history.
This is primarily an E3-E5 sports climbing crag that gets the evening sun. The left wall is steep and very fingery even for sandstone. It is a good suntrap, although seepage is generally quite bad, so take a blow torch. Most of the routes were in the process of being
re-equipped as the guide went to press. There are some belay stakes for a back up rope if required, although they
are set well back in the bracken and consequently are hard to find.

== ACCESS ==

From the A4059 Mountain Ash to Aberdare road take the Cwmaman (Aberaman) turn off and follow this road to a T-Junction. Turn left and follow this road to The Shepard’s Arms on the left. Take the obvious side road forking off left (Llanwonno Rd) just before the estate. Follow this past a prominent row of houses, until a gravel track leads off left, by a substation, to two houses. This is by a triangular island in the road. Follow a narrow dirt track off left and park, taking care not to block the forestry road bending back right. Walk down the track for 100m, then take a steep path up the hill to arrive in the quarry.

If on foot, regular buses run to Cwmaman itself; from Aberdare and Mountain Ash.

[[Map Of Gower and SE Wales]]

== THE ROUTES ==

===Left Wall===

[[File:Cwmaman - Left Wall.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Cwmaman - Left Wall. ''Photo: Steve Delaney'']]

1. '''Rab/The Numbers Game E5,6a (Fr7a) **'''

A long and exhausting traverse. Start up ''Good Tradition'', and move across to the break on ''Mother Of Pearl''. Move up and across to ''Two For Tuesday'' and across the loose corner onto the arete. Climb this for a few feet, then traverse the obvious break as far as ''Innuendo'', which is followed to finish. BB. 30m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

2. '''30' is the new 20' Fr7a *, 9m'''

The first route on the left wall from the left. Independently follow the four BR's to the lower off ring & bolt. Contains a low and high crux using holds to the left of the bolted line.

Steven Delaney (after 30th B'day) & Gareth Jones 26.04.2010

[[Image:30 the new 20.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Steve Delaney on the first accent of; 30' is the new 20']]

3. '''Good Tradition - Fr.6a+, 9m'''

The leftmost line on the small left hand section of the wall.

P.Lewis, A.Sharp 05.11.1988

4. '''A Clear Head And A Blow Lamp - Fr6c, 11m *'''

The crackline to the right has a superb starting move and is hard higher up.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

5. '''A Clear Conscience And A Blow Job - E3,6a'''

As for A Clear Head And A Blowlamp until just below the top, then step out right onto the wall to finish. 14m

N.Davies, A.Meek 00.00.1994

6. '''Maybe Tomorrow - Fr7b+'''

A direct approach to the finish of A Clear Head And A Blow Job. 14m

A.Sharp 00.00.1995

7. '''Mother Of Pearl - Fr.7a+ **'''

The centre of the wall to the right with a bold start and [[very]] thin crank at half-height. 14m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

8. '''Two For Tuesday - Fr.6c+'''

A reasonable line just left of the arete of the higher section of the main wall. 14m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 08.05.1989

9. '''The World Is My Lobster - Fr.6c+ *'''

The right-hand side of the aforementioned arete. 17m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 08.05.1989

10. '''Propaganda - Fr.7a+ ***'''

Start right of the arete, and make a hard move up past a two finger pocket. Continue up the wall between breaks to join The World Is My Lobster at its final bolt(?), BB. 17m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 07.11.1988

11. '''Science Friction - Fr.7a+ *'''

A harder proposition to the right of Propaganda. At the high bong, move left to the BB of Propaganda. 16m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

12. '''La Rage - Fr.7b **'''

An utterly desperate move from the lower break gives way to sustained climbing and a hard move near the top. Start by a step in the banking, below a PR. Pass this BR, to a very hard move up to a sloping jug and the break. Continue direct to a BB. 15m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.05.1989

13. '''Innuendo - Fr7b+ *'''

The final line of in-situ gear on the wall. It rarely dries out. 14m

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.05.1989

===The Left of the Back Wall===

''The following short routes are good and last three share an immense pigtail lower off (plus the wreck of the original belay for the paranoid):''

[[File:Cwmaman - Long Back Wall.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Cwmaman - The left (Long) Back Wall. ''Photo: Steve Delaney'']]

14. '''Looking for Leather Fr 5'''

The first route to the right of the obvious corner. Follow the bolts on the left of 'Instead Of...' to an independent belay.

Myles and Nicola Jordan 12.06.2010

15.''' Instead Of This 12m Fr5+'''

The cleaned wall on the back wall past a line of twizzle bolts, to the shared pigtail lower off.

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 16.06.1990

16. '''Circus Clowns Fr6a'''

The line immediately to the right to the same belay follows more twizzles, to the shared pigtail lower off.

R.Thomas, 00.06.2010

16.5 '''Zoo Time 12m Fr5+'''

Climb straight up the wall, following the twizzles, to the shared pigtail lower off.

R Thomas June 2010

17. '''Crack Line Man 12m VS,4c'''

The crack line in the loose blocky buttress to the right.

SWMC 00.00.1989

===<div style="text-align: left;"> The Right of the Back Wall </div>===

''This is the loose looking section of rock to the right of the previous routes.''

1. '''Cilly Arete Fr6a'''

Climb the left arete with a tricky move at the top.

G.Lewis & S.Delaney 20.04.2010

2. '''Sam Sparrow Fr5+'''

Starting just to the left the words 'Tich 93' climb the line of bolts.

G.Lewis & Ollie Burrows 00.03.2010

3. '''Alys Rook Fr5'''

Climbs the line of bolts to the arête just by the words 'Tich 93'.

G.Lewis & Ollie Burrows 00.03.2010

4. '''Alys Rook Direct Fr6b/c'''

As the last route but with a bouldery start via the lower right wall to the empty bolt hole.

S.Delaney 15.06.10

===The Right Side Walls and Arête ===

''On the right is a slightly slabby square-cut buttress. The left wall faces back towards the main left-hand wall of the quarry. ''

16. '''Hot Beef Injection 12m E3,6a Fr6c *'''

The left-hand route on this slab is tricky. A wire is needed to thread the first ROTTEN PR. Follow BRs to an old BB.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 13.11.1988

17. '''Spam Javelin 14m Fr5'''

A poor route that may improve with traffic. Follow the central crack line with a crux located low down.

R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990

18. '''Neo Maxie Zoom Weenie 14m E3,6a Fr6b+ *'''

Just to the right is a short thin crack (wires). Follow this up onto the slab and climb the slab past two rotten pegs to a BB. It may be possible to top rope from the belay of Pork Sword.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 13.11.1988

19. '''Le Pork Sword 15m Fr6b'''

Starting on the right-hand side of the arete. Your aiming for the BB on Neo Maxie Zoom Weenie at the top of the left wall. Contains one tricky move on route up the arete.

R.Thomas 15.03.1998

The following routes are all located of the fingery right wall of the crag:

19a. '''Turkey Twizzler 15m Fr6a+'''

The wall right of the arete to the shared belay of Anniversary Walk. Start as for Anniversary walk then move left to the shallow cave. Pull steeply out of this and continue up the wall.

R Thomas ,Nand M Jordan .Giulia

20. '''Unnamed 6a''

Follow the spaced bolts to the first lower off located to the right of 'Turkey Twizzler'. Great technical climbing at the grade.

Unnamed 00.00.0000

21.''' Anniversary Walk 15m HVS,5b Fr5+ *'''

The wall just right of the arete, BB.

R.Thomas, M.Crocker 13.11.1988

22. '''The forgotten route 10m Fr6a''

A bit of an eliminate. Climb the tricky start to a bolt below the big/loose recess above. The lower off is situated just below the recess.

G.Lewis and S.Delaney 01.09.2009

23. '''Hey Mister 15m E1,5c Fr6a'''

The wall right again, BB.

R.Thomas, M.Crocker 13.11.1988

24.''' Buff The Happy Lamp 15m E1,5c Fr6a'''

The wall right again, then follow a rising traverse to the belay of Pork Sword, BB.

R.Thomas, P.Hadley 00.08.1999

25. '''Yank the Plank 15m E1,5b Fr6a'''

The wall right again to a BB.

R.Thomas, P.Hadley 00.08.1999

26.''' Evil Ways 15m E1,5b Fr6a'''

The wall right again to a BB.

P.Hadley, R.Thomas 00.08.1999

Cwmaman Main

2017-11-18T21:30:07Z

Alan rosier:

[[Contents]][[Image:Cwmaman Main.JPG|600px|thumb|right|Cwmaman Main. Photo: Robin McAlister]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR SS 995 992

== PREAMBLE ==
'''Also see [[Cwmaman West]]'''.

Seepage aside, Cwmaman will always be well worth a visit come what may. It was certainly regarded it as one of the better sandstone crags in SE.Wales in the late eighties. It is seen as a positive attribute rather than an impediment that local wisdom retains traditional routes alongside sport/clip-up climbs, thus preserving the true nature of a place and its history.
This is primarily an E3-E5 sports climbing crag that gets the evening sun. The left wall is steep and very fingery even for sandstone. It is a good suntrap, although seepage is generally quite bad, so take a blow torch. Most of the routes were in the process of being
re-equipped as the guide went to press. There are some belay stakes for a back up rope if required, although they
are set well back in the bracken and consequently are hard to find.

== ACCESS ==

From the A4059 Mountain Ash to Aberdare road take the Cwmaman (Aberaman) turn off and follow this road to a T-Junction. Turn left and follow this road to The Shepard’s Arms on the left. Take the obvious side road forking off left (Llanwonno Rd) just before the estate. Follow this past a prominent row of houses, until a gravel track leads off left, by a substation, to two houses. This is by a triangular island in the road. Follow a narrow dirt track off left and park, taking care not to block the forestry road bending back right. Walk down the track for 100m, then take a steep path up the hill to arrive in the quarry.

If on foot, regular buses run to Cwmaman itself; from Aberdare and Mountain Ash.

[[Map Of Gower and SE Wales]]

== THE ROUTES ==

===Left Wall===

[[File:Cwmaman - Left Wall.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|Cwmaman - Left Wall. ''Photo: Steve Delaney'']]

1. '''Rab/The Numbers Game E5,6a (Fr7a) **'''

A long and exhausting traverse. Start up ''Good Tradition'', and move across to the break on ''Mother Of Pearl''. Move up and across to ''Two For Tuesday'' and across the loose corner onto the arete. Climb this for a few feet, then traverse the obvious break as far as ''Innuendo'', which is followed to finish. BB. 30m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

2. '''30' is the new 20' Fr7a *, 9m'''

The first route on the left wall from the left. Independently follow the four BR's to the lower off ring & bolt. Contains a low and high crux using holds to the left of the bolted line.

Steven Delaney (after 30th B'day) & Gareth Jones 26.04.2010

[[Image:30 the new 20.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Steve Delaney on the first accent of; 30' is the new 20']]

3. '''Good Tradition - Fr.6a+, 9m'''

The leftmost line on the small left hand section of the wall.

P.Lewis, A.Sharp 05.11.1988

4. '''A Clear Head And A Blow Lamp - Fr6c, 11m *'''

The crackline to the right has a superb starting move and is hard higher up.

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

5. '''A Clear Conscience And A Blow Job - E3,6a'''

As for A Clear Head And A Blowlamp until just below the top, then step out right onto the wall to finish. 14m

N.Davies, A.Meek 00.00.1994

6. '''Maybe Tomorrow - Fr7b+'''

A direct approach to the finish of A Clear Head And A Blow Job. 14m

A.Sharp 00.00.1995

7. '''Mother Of Pearl - Fr.7a+ **'''

The centre of the wall to the right with a bold start and [[very]] thin crank at half-height. 14m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

8. '''Two For Tuesday - Fr.6c+'''

A reasonable line just left of the arete of the higher section of the main wall. 14m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 08.05.1989

[[Image:Cwmaman Left Wall.JPG|400px|thumb|right|Mike peddle leading up ''Two For Tuesday''. Photo: Robin McAlister]]

9. '''The World Is My Lobster - Fr.6c+ *'''

The right-hand side of the aforementioned arete. 17m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 08.05.1989

10. '''Propaganda - Fr.7a+ ***'''

Start right of the arete, and make a hard move up past a two finger pocket. Continue up the wall between breaks to join The World Is My Lobster at its final bolt(?), BB. 17m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 07.11.1988

11. '''Science Friction - Fr.7a+ *'''

A harder proposition to the right of Propaganda. At the high bong, move left to the BB of Propaganda. 16m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 05.11.1988

12. '''La Rage - Fr.7b **'''

An utterly desperate move from the lower break gives way to sustained climbing and a hard move near the top. Start by a step in the banking, below a PR. Pass this BR, to a very hard move up to a sloping jug and the break. Continue direct to a BB. 15m

A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.05.1989

13. '''Innuendo - Fr7b+ *'''

The final line of in-situ gear on the wall. It rarely dries out. 14m

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.05.1989

===The Left of the Back Wall===

''The following short routes are good and last three share an immense pigtail lower off (plus the wreck of the original belay for the paranoid):''

[[File:Cwmaman - Long Back Wall.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Cwmaman - The left (Long) Back Wall. ''Photo: Steve Delaney'']]

14. '''Looking for Leather Fr 5'''

The first route to the right of the obvious corner. Follow the bolts on the left of 'Instead Of...' to an independent belay.

Myles and Nicola Jordan 12.06.2010

15.''' Instead Of This 12m Fr5+'''

The cleaned wall on the back wall past a line of twizzle bolts, to the shared pigtail lower off.

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 16.06.1990

16. '''Circus Clowns Fr6a'''

The line immediately to the right to the same belay follows more twizzles, to the shared pigtail lower off.

R.Thomas, 00.06.2010

16.5 '''Zoo Time 12m Fr5+'''

Climb straight up the wall, following the twizzles, to the shared pigtail lower off.

R Thomas June 2010

17. '''Crack Line Man 12m VS,4c'''

The crack line in the loose blocky buttress to the right.

SWMC 00.00.1989

===<div style="text-align: left;"> The Right of the Back Wall </div>===

''This is the loose looking section of rock to the right of the previous routes.''

1. '''Cilly Arete Fr6a'''

Climb the left arete with a tricky move at the top.

G.Lewis & S.Delaney 20.04.2010

2. '''Sam Sparrow Fr5+'''

Starting just to the left the words 'Tich 93' climb the line of bolts.

G.Lewis & Ollie Burrows 00.03.2010

3. '''Alys Rook Fr5'''

Climbs the line of bolts to the arête just by the words 'Tich 93'.

G.Lewis & Ollie Burrows 00.03.2010

4. '''Alys Rook Direct Fr6b/c'''

As the last route but with a bouldery start via the lower right wall to the empty bolt hole.

S.Delaney 15.06.10

===The Right Side Walls and Arête ===

''On the right is a slightly slabby square-cut buttress. The left wall faces back towards the main left-hand wall of the quarry. ''

16. '''Hot Beef Injection 12m E3,6a Fr6c *'''

The left-hand route on this slab is tricky. A wire is needed to thread the first ROTTEN PR. Follow BRs to an old BB.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 13.11.1988

[[Image:The Side Wall - Cwmaman.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The Side Wall - Cwmaman]]

17. '''Spam Javelin 14m Fr5'''

A poor route that may improve with traffic. Follow the central crack line with a crux located low down.

R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990

18. '''Neo Maxie Zoom Weenie 14m E3,6a Fr6b+ *'''

Just to the right is a short thin crack (wires). Follow this up onto the slab and climb the slab past two rotten pegs to a BB. It may be possible to top rope from the belay of Pork Sword.

M.Crocker, R.Thomas 13.11.1988

19. '''Le Pork Sword 15m Fr6b'''

Starting on the right-hand side of the arete. Your aiming for the BB on Neo Maxie Zoom Weenie at the top of the left wall. Contains one tricky move on route up the arete.

R.Thomas 15.03.1998

The following routes are all located of the fingery right wall of the crag:

19a. '''Turkey Twizzler 15m Fr6a+'''

The wall right of the arete to the shared belay of Anniversary Walk. Start as for Anniversary walk then move left to the shallow cave. Pull steeply out of this and continue up the wall.

R Thomas ,Nand M Jordan .Giulia

20. '''Unnamed 6a''

Follow the spaced bolts to the first lower off located to the right of 'Turkey Twizzler'. Great technical climbing at the grade.

Unnamed 00.00.0000

21.''' Anniversary Walk 15m HVS,5b Fr5+ *'''

The wall just right of the arete, BB.

R.Thomas, M.Crocker 13.11.1988

22. '''The forgotten route 10m Fr6a''

A bit of an eliminate. Climb the tricky start to a bolt below the big/loose recess above. The lower off is situated just below the recess.

G.Lewis and S.Delaney 01.09.2009

23. '''Hey Mister 15m E1,5c Fr6a'''

The wall right again, BB.

R.Thomas, M.Crocker 13.11.1988

24.''' Buff The Happy Lamp 15m E1,5c Fr6a'''

The wall right again, then follow a rising traverse to the belay of Pork Sword, BB.

R.Thomas, P.Hadley 00.08.1999

25. '''Yank the Plank 15m E1,5b Fr6a'''

The wall right again to a BB.

R.Thomas, P.Hadley 00.08.1999

26.''' Evil Ways 15m E1,5b Fr6a'''

The wall right again to a BB.

P.Hadley, R.Thomas 00.08.1999

Crymlyn Quarries

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Alan rosier:

Cilfrew Edge

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Bargoed

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Alan rosier:

BARGOED
GR006153
PREAMBLE
A small quarry consisting of two walls seperated by an arete. West facing, sheltered during the winter, but a suntrap
in the summer. Lichen can be a problem at times, though is easy to remove and it is not as bad as the burnt rubber
coating at Penrhiwceiber. Some care is needed with the remaining loose rock. Most of the routes could just about be
described as sports climbs, but without belay bolts. There is a good telegraph pole about 20m back from the top of
the crag, but watch out for the goat. There is also a tip at the left-hand end to add to the general Valleys ambience of
the place (Beware).
ACCESS
From Bargoed town centre, follow the B4511 northwards to a steep right hand bend ¼ mile beyond the town centre.
Park on the left. On foot, alight at Bargoed railway station, take the east exit and turn left to reach the same spot. Walk
100m up the hill and turn into Quarry Row on the left hand side. Proceed 100m down to the track to the obvious quarry
on the right.
THE ROUTES
1. Mr. Gorrilla’s Got A Big Nose 9m E3,6b Fr7a *
The slab at the left-hand side of the wall left of the central tower. Desperate. BR, PR.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 04.03.1989
2. Pepperatzi 14m E2,5b
The obvious corner left of the main arete.
L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd 00.00.1989
3. Blowing For Tugs 14m E4,6b Fr7a+ *
The route of the crag. The wall left of the main arete has a desperate and somewhat baffling move to pass the
BR (hint, a heelhook/footlock is needed). The wall above is somewhat easier and possesses a mega-bong.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.01.1989
4. Hawk’s Cheep 14m E2,5c
The corner to the right.
P.Lewis, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 29.01.1989
5. Our Man In Bargoed 6m E2,6b Fr6c+
The wall to the right currently only climbed to a good hold above the BR. It is inadvisable to continue to abseil
off the pegs at 14m, as they have now fallen out.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.01.1989
6. Black Dog 12m E2,6a
To the right is a sloping ramp at 3m. Gain this, move up a few metres, then step left to a BR. Climb the groove
and crack above, PR.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.01.1989
7. Up For Grabs 12m E3,6a
Gain the same ramp, but move right to a PR. Continue up the groove past further PRs. Finish on the shelf above.
M.Learoyd, L.Foulkes 00.00.1989

Abbey Buttress

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Alan rosier:

[[Contents]]

[[South East Wales Sandstone]]

GR 078 958

[[Image:Abbey Buttress.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Abbey Buttress]]

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==
This the obvious crag above the steelworks, easily visible from the M4. It has awesome views of one of the last remaining pieces of heavy industrialisation in South Wales, somewhat akin to a 1960s black and white film about the working man. It is exposed but has a sunny aspect from 11am onwards (though you would not know this if you turned up after sunset, when it looks like something out of 'blade runner' .. or was it road runner?) Seepage is only a problem on the extreme left-hand side of he main wall. The rock quality is exceptional. For routes without lower-offs, stake belays are i place, sensibly at the top of the crag.

== ACCESS ==
Approach by leaving the M4 at junction 40 to find a round-a-bout and travel towards the sea. Turn left at the first traffic lights you find and continue to the Old Surgery pub. Take the left turning opposite the pub and follow a road back under the motorway to some bungalows. Park here, treating the grass with care. Left of the first bungalow is a gate. Pass through this and proceed up the hill to a track. Turn right and continue until below the crag, finding a suitable way up.

== DESCENTS ==
Almost all routes are equipped with abseil bolts. For other routes, it is straightforward to walk down either side of the crag.

== THE ROUTES ==
1. '''Bargaining Counter 25m E1,5b'''

A left to right girdle along the horizontal break. Start up Closed Shop and finish up Writings On The Wall.

2. '''Closed Shop 16m E2,5c'''

Start up a left trending ramp 3m right of the left hand corner of the main face. Proceed up the ramp to a horizontal break. Pull onto the upper wall to gain and finish up a thin crack.

3. '''Restrictive Practice 16m E3,5c *'''

The thinner crack line left of Crack Basher. As for closed shop but pull out right to gain a break. Once on the headwall move right to a good nut placement, then move back left to finish.

4. '''Crack Basher 18m E2,5c ***'''

A CLASSIC! with a couple of hard moves. From the foot of the left-trending ramp, climb up a niche to a glacés. Pull onto this and plod easily to a hard move up the final crack, TR.

5. '''Sign Of The Times 18m E4,6a *'''

Start slightly right and pass a PR to gain a prominent crack. Follow this to a big, bendy PR and make a hard move up and slighty right to gain the break. Finish more or less direct, PR.

6. '''PR Job 18m E4,6b'''

A route which sports several RPs of some form, not all of which are runners! Start just right of Sign Of The Times under the initials 'PR'. Climb the crack past a real RP and move left. Move slightly back right to gain the finish of Urban Development.

7. '''Urban Development 18m E4,6b **'''

Start to the right of PR Job and slightly left of a slanting groove at half-height. Climb past 2PRs to a hard move out left to a flake. From the horizontal break follow the crack on the left to the top.

8. '''Writings On The Wall 18m E3,5c'''

Start as for Urban Development. at the first PR move right to gain the base of a hanging groove. Climb this to the break, passing a leaf of rock on the way to the top. Can also be started direct.

9. '''Split The Equity 16m E2,5b'''

The steep flake line down and to the right. Reach the small cave below and right to the small tree. Now pull out and follow the flake.

10. '''Hot Mill 16m E5,6b (Fr 7a+) *'''

S.E Wales answer to The Quarryman. Between the last route and the tower of Industrial Relations is an innocuous looking groove starting at 6m. Gain, then battle up this! The gear is OK after the first clip, which can be protected by a couple of small friends. The BB is set well back.

11. '''Pig Iron - Fr.6c+'''

New line

12. '''Industrial Relations 18m E1,5b'''

Start below the tower toward the right-hand end of the crag. Climb the corner and follow a crack splitting the tower to a small ledge and the final wall. PB and stake.

13. '''Cold Rolled 10m E3,6b (Fr6c+) *'''

A tricky little boulder problem up the slab/wall at the right-hand side of the crag.

14. '''Nether Edge 9m E3,6c (Fr7b)'''

The arête to the BB of Cold Rolled with a desperate moce at half height.

===First Ascents===

1. G.Evans, L.Morgan (26.10.1986)

2. R.Thomas, J.Bullock, G.Evans, L.Moran (26.10.1986)

3. R.Thomas, G.Royle (30.09.1986)

4. R.Thomas, G.Royle (28.09.1986)

5. FFA M.Crocker (18.10.1986)

6. M.Crocker, R.Thomas (18.10.1986)

7. FFA M.Crocker, R.Thomas (18.10.1986)

8. G.Royal, R.Thomas (00.09.1988)

9. R.Thomas, G.Royal, J.Bullock (00.04.1988)

10. R.Thomas (00.00.1995)

11. R. Thomas (2009)

12. G.Royal, R.Thomas (00.09.1986)

13. R.Thomas (00.00.1995)

14. E.Travers-Jones (00.00.1997)

Main Page

2017-11-18T21:11:30Z

Alan rosier:

[[Image:Swmc gb2.png|900px|center|alt=South Wales Mountaineering Club - Guidebook Wiki|link=]]

{| class="wikitable" style="width:1050px; float:centre; height:200px" border="1"
|-
!style="background-color: #6b8da2"| South Wales Latest News
|-
|
*'''May 2015 - [[Llwynypia]]''' is recieving some overdue TLC, please respect the projects.
*'''May 2015 - [[Elephant_Wall|Ogmore]]. Peregrines nesting around [[Elephant Wall]] route, please avoid.'''
*'''July 2014 - [[Tyle y Coch]].''' Crag re-bolted with SWMC funded stainless bolts. The few unrestored easy routes remaining will require a dedicated clean before a re-bolt is considered worthwhile, volunteers?
*'''June 2014 - [[Treherbert|Trehebert Quarry]].''' Regeared and updated mountain crag, check out the page.
*'''August 2013 - [[Ton Pentre]]''' in the Rhonnda has had a regear. Respect the remaining projects please.
*'''July 2013 - [[Rhossili#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]''' now open for business. You know the score, beach sport climbing for those tough enough (up to Fr.8b). Coming soon; easier routes for mortals!
*'''June 2013 - [[Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr]]''' has a new wall (9 routes, graded Fr.5+ to 7a+).
*'''May 2013 - [[Taffs Well Pinnacle]]''' - New limestone sport. - (New Routes grade Fr.4+ to Fr.6a).
*'''Major rockfall has affected the ''Terminal Overhang Wall'', at [[The Darren]], please avoid until further notice.'''

*'''NEW - [[Crag Maintenance|Crag Maintenance/Bolting Proposals]] page on wiki''' - to be used for BMC consultations.
*'''May 2012''' - '''[[Gelli]]''' A sunny sandstone crag in the Rhondda. Regeared with many new easier sports routes.
*'''April 2012''' - '''[[Tirpentwys]]''' regeared after recent vandalism.
*'''April 2012 - [[Senghenydd]]''' - New sport climbing venue near Caerphilly with short walk-in. - (Fr.4 to fr.6b+).
*'''April 2012 - [[Paviland Far Far West]]''' - Sported up for your delight. - (11 routes from Fr.6a+ to fr.6c).
*'''April 2012 - [[Oakdale]]''' - New Sandstone Quarry. - (19 New Routes grade Fr.5 to Fr.6b+).

|}
<randomimage size="500" float="right" choices="Chris Sheppard cutting loose.jpg|
Flash Harry 2.jpg|
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PICT0758.JPG|
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The Gap2.jpg|
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TempleBay-Myles-Jordan-9433c-Web.jpg
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Barland quarry climbing.jpg"
/>

== Rock Climbing in South Wales ==

Historically overshadowed by its further neighbour, Pembroke, some of the best routes in the UK are located within S.E. Wales and Gower. It's worth a visit or ten! The climbing ranges from 'exciting' to well bolted sport climbs on limestone or sandstone. There is something for everyone. The climbing can be split into 4 sections: [[Gower|Gower Peninsula]], [[South East Wales Sandstone|S.E Wales Sandstone]], [[Inland Limestone]] & [[Bridgend Area]]:

'''[[Gower|Gower]]''' is set in one of the most beautiful coastal areas of Wales and contains many fine trad routes from V.Diffs to the upper Extremes. If trad isn't your thing, then there are some steep caves and quarries dedicated to sport climbing! The crags are mostly in relaxed (and scenic) positions with some regionally important routes.

'''[[South East Wales Sandstone|S.E. Wales Sandstone]]''' climbing is on the hard indurated sandstone of the [[wikipedia:South_Wales_coalfield|South Wales Coalfield]]. Generally this means either bolted routes in quarries, or pleasant natural (non-bolted) outcrops. The quarries range from small bites in the hillside to huge monolithic wastelands. Crags are often remnants of the industrial heritage belonging to the South Wales valleys ... but there is something actually pleasant about all this!

'''[[Inland Limestone]]''' can contrast in character quite radically. For example, inland sport climbing on steep and solid natural limestone may be found at [[Dinas Rock]], whilst vertical to slabby quarried rock is in plentiful supply around [[Taffs Well]], just off the M4, north of Cardiff.

'''[[Bridgend Area]]''' is for those with salt water in their veins. Coastal bolt clipping can be found at [[Witches Point]], or at the other end of the adventure spectrum there is nationally important [[Ogmore]], which like Marmite ... you will either love or hate.

== Bouldering in South Wales ==
South Wales [[bouldering]] is yet to be developed to the level of North Wales, or the peak, yet it offers a fine spectrum of climbing for experienced and novice boulderers alike. [[Kennelgarth Wall]] at Dinas offers some great safe problems rewarding strength and subtle technique. [[The Trench]] at Ogmore is unique - grit shapes without friction. [[Bouldering in Gower]] gives the climber a 'mine' of easier problems - and some hard ones - with the additional attractions of swimming and jumping at high tide.

The guide is far from complete but is complemented by [http://www.swbg.co.uk www.swbg.co.uk]. One of the problems is that we keep discovering nice new areas to boulder at!

== How You Can Get Involved ==
Anyone interested in rock-climbing and bouldering is welcome to get involved in the development of this wiki.

We are interested in recruiting editors to update pages and to supply news and photographs. The only requirements are that you have something of interest that you are willing to share and that you can work together with other editors to produce an up-to-date and useful resource for climbers both in S. Wales and further afield.

If you are interested, '''[[Special:UserLogin/signup|create yourself an account]]'''.

'''N.B.''' New users should note that:
*'''both''' your ''username'' '''and''' ''password'' are case-sensitive.
*your username should take the form of your real ''Full Name''. e.g. '''Fred Bloggs''', etc..

For furthur info, contact '''[mailto:craginfo@skyhook.ath.cx SMWC Craginfo]'''

__NOTITLE__
__NOTOC__
<div style="display: none;"><a href="http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/hpot/unionistwidow.php">publisher-social</a></div>

Main Page

2017-11-18T21:07:59Z

Alan rosier:

{{#seo:
|title=Gower and South East Wales Rock Climbing Wiki
|keywords=rock climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, South Wales, Gower, Ogmore, Carmarthen, wiki
|description=Rock Climbing in South Wales Guidebook Wiki
}}
[[Image:Swmc gb2.png|900px|center|alt=South Wales Mountaineering Club - Guidebook Wiki|link=]]

{| class="wikitable" style="width:1050px; float:centre; height:200px" border="1"
|-
!style="background-color: #6b8da2"| South Wales Latest News
|-
|
*'''December 2016 - [[Castle Upon Alun]]'''. More winter sport, this time limestone. Gets early morning sun. the slabs are best in freezing conditions.'''
*'''July 2016''' - '''[[Cwmcarn]]''' has been reinvented as a winter sandstone venue. Mainly sport with a few trad offerings.'''
*'''March 2016''' - '''[[Abbey_Buttress|Abbey Buttress]]''' refurbished! Now has almost 30 routes from Fr.5 up and the access path has been cleared.'''
*'''Sept 2015''' - Check out the Upper Tier at '''[[Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr]]'''.
*'''June 2015 - [[Drugs_Cliff|Llantrisant Drugs Cliff]]''' now completely re-geared on a point for point basis.
*'''May 2015 - [[Llwynypia]]''' is recieving some overdue TLC, please respect the projects.
*'''July 2014 - [[Tyle y Coch]].''' Crag re-bolted with SWMC funded stainless bolts. The few unrestored easy routes remaining will require a dedicated clean before a re-bolt is considered worthwhile, volunteers?
*'''June 2014 - [[Treherbert|Trehebert Quarry]].''' Regeared and updated mountain crag, check out the page.
*'''August 2013 - [[Ton Pentre]]''' in the Rhonnda has had a regear and some new routes.
*'''July 2013 - [[Rhossili#Shipwreck Cove|Shipwreck Cove]]''' now open for business. You know the score, beach sport climbing for those tough enough (up to Fr.8b). Coming soon; easier routes for mortals!
*'''June 2013 - [[Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr]]''' has a new wall (12 routes, graded Fr.5+ to 7a+).
*'''May 2013 - [[Taffs Well Pinnacle]]''' - New limestone sport. - (New Routes grade Fr.4+ to Fr.6a).
*'''NEW - [[Crag Maintenance|Crag Maintenance/Bolting Proposals]] page on wiki''' - to be used for BMC consultations.
*'''May 2012''' - '''[[Gelli]]''' A sunny sandstone crag in the Rhondda. Regeared with many new easier sports routes.
*'''April 2012 - [[Senghenydd]]''' - New sport climbing venue near Caerphilly with short walk-in. - (Fr.4 to fr.6b+).
*'''April 2012 - [[Paviland Far Far West]]''' - Sported up for your delight. - (11 routes from Fr.6a+ to fr.6c).
*'''April 2012 - [[Oakdale]]''' - New Sandstone Quarry. - (19 New Routes grade Fr.5 to Fr.6b+).

|}
<randomimage size="500" float="right" choices="Chris Sheppard cutting loose.jpg|
Flash Harry 2.jpg|
Si roof.jpg|
Deborahs Bouldering.jpeg|
Surplomb.jpg|
Ultimatum.jpg|
PICT0758.JPG|
Hayabusa.jpg|
The Gap2.jpg|
Diamond Dog 5.jpg|
Skanderbeg.jpg|
Waun lefrith.jpg|
Nik Goile on Flash Harry.JPG|
Zulu Wall.jpg|
Clart 01.jpg|
Lyddite.jpg|
Spring Tide.jpg|
Mateusz web.jpg|
BEG.jpg|
Shackles of love.jpg|
Jezza.jpg|
Rose and Rat.jpg|
Ogmore11.jpg|
Chis beynon odins.jpg|
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/>

== Rock Climbing in South Wales ==

Although overshadowed by its neighbour, Pembroke, some of the best routes in the UK are to be found in S.E. Wales and Gower. The climbing ranges from 'exciting' sea cliff trad, to well bolted sport climbs on limestone and sandstone. There is something for everyone. This guidebook wiki divides the area into 6 sections based upon a similar geography and/or rock type: [[:Category:Gower|Gower Peninsula]], [[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|S.E Wales Sandstone]], [[:Category:Inland Limestone|Inland Limestone]], [[Bridgend Area]], [[Ogmore]] & [[Carmarthenshire]]:

'''[[:Category:Gower|Gower]]''' is set in one of the most beautiful coastal areas of Wales and contains many fine trad routes from V.Diffs to the upper Extremes. If trad isn't your thing, then there are some steep caves and quarries dedicated to sport climbing! The crags are mostly in relaxed (and scenic) positions with some regionally important routes.

'''[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|S.E. Wales Sandstone]]''' climbing is on the hard indurated sandstone of the [[wikipedia:South_Wales_coalfield|South Wales Coalfield]]. Generally this means either bolted routes in quarries, or pleasant natural (non-bolted) outcrops. The quarries range from small bites in the hillside to huge monolithic wastelands. Crags are often remnants of the industrial heritage belonging to the South Wales valleys ... but there is something actually pleasant about all this!

'''[[:Category:Inland Limestone|Inland Limestone]]''' can contrast in character quite radically. For example, inland sport climbing on steep and solid natural limestone may be found at [[Dinas Rock]], whilst vertical to slabby quarried rock is in plentiful supply around [[Taffs Well]], just off the M4, north of Cardiff.

'''[[Bridgend Area]]''' is for those with salt water in their veins. Coastal bolt clipping can be found at [[Witches Point]], or at the other end of the adventure spectrum there is nationally important [[Ogmore]], which like Marmite ... you will either love or hate.

== Bouldering in South Wales ==
South Wales [[:Category:Bouldering | bouldering]] is yet to be developed to the level of North Wales, or the peak, yet it offers a fine spectrum of climbing for experienced and novice boulderers alike. [[Kennelgarth Wall]] at Dinas offers some great safe problems rewarding strength and subtle technique. [[The Trench]] at Ogmore is unique - grit shapes without friction. [[Bouldering in Gower]] gives the climber a 'mine' of easier problems - and some hard ones - with the additional attractions of swimming and jumping at high tide.

The guide is far from complete but is complemented by [http://www.swbg.co.uk www.swbg.co.uk]. One of the problems is that we keep discovering nice new areas to boulder at!

== How You Can Get Involved ==
Anyone interested in rock-climbing and bouldering is welcome to get involved in the development of this wiki.

We are interested in recruiting editors to update pages and to supply news and photographs. The only requirements are that you have something of interest that you are willing to share and that you can work together with other editors to produce an up-to-date and useful resource for climbers both in S. Wales and further afield.

If you are interested, '''[[Special:UserLogin/signup|create yourself an account]]'''.

'''N.B.''' New users should note that:
*'''both''' your ''username'' '''and''' ''password'' are case-sensitive.
*your username should take the form of your real ''Full Name''. e.g. '''Fred Bloggs''', etc..

For furthur info, contact '''[mailto:craginfo@skyhook.ath.cx Wiki Craginfo]'''

__NOTITLE__
__NOTOC__
<div style="display: none;"><a href="http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/hpot/unionistwidow.php">publisher-social</a></div>

Main Page

2017-11-18T21:04:05Z

Alan rosier:

Trebanog

2017-10-07T06:56:37Z

Alan rosier: /* Main Area */

__NOTITLE__
[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[Image:trebanog title.jpg|700px|thumb|right|]]

GR ST (3)01361 (1)90196

Lat: 51.601933
Lon: -3.4256101

Nearest Post Code: CF39 9YY

== BOLTING POLICY ==
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionists permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

== PREAMBLE ==
A moderately good, pretty solid, low-lying crag, with a sunny aspect and many routes in the lower grades. It can occasionally be windy. Unfortunately there is a lot of broken glass at the bottom of the crag and visits with dogs are probably not wise for this reason. There are plenty of concrete fence posts to belay from at the top of the crag. Due to its relatively low height and easy angle a large number of extremely trivial 'filler ins' have been claimed. As many of these as possible have been included but you will need plumb balls, some string and a ruler to climb them independently.

== ACCESS ==
Take the A4233 to Trebanog, taking the Tonypandy turn off at the traffic lights in the centre of the village. the crag is 200m down the road on the right hand side. If on foot buses run up from Porth.

== DESCENTS ==
It is easy and obvious to walk around either end of the crag.

== THE ROUTES ==
===<div style="text-align: left;"> Left Hand End </div>===

''At the left hand end of the crag is a sharp left hand arête.''

#'''Howell's Arête - HVS, 5a''' If de-vegetated, the arête at the extreme left hand end of the crag is climbed on it's left. 6m 
#'''Howell's Arete Right - HVS,5c''' A good extended boulder problem up the arete on it's right hand side. 6m 
#'''Pete's Boulder Problem - E2, 6b/c''' The brushed wall to the right of the arete. 6m 
#'''Loose Stuff - VS, 4b ''' The vague line of slightly broken cracks at the right hand side of the sheet of solid rock. Poor. 6m 
#'''To The Left - VS, 4b''' Another poor line slightly to the right. 6m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Bolted Overhanging Wall </div>===
[[Image:trebanoh_1.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''One Upmanship - E1, 5c''' On the left hand side of the wall are some thin cracks. Climb them with more difficulty than might be expected! 6m 
#'''March of Progress - Fr. 7a+ *''' The blankest section of rock left of the central hairline crack is gained directly and climbed with a hard crux BR, 2PRs. Using holds in For Your Hands Only reduces the grade. 12m 
#''' For Your Hands Only - Fr. 6c *''' The central crack line. Best to pre-clip bolt No.2 on ''March''. 12m 
#'''Banog's Barmy Army - Fr. 6c+ *''' Straightened out since the first ascent. Start right of For Your Hands Only. BB. 12m 
#'''Grab Some Tree And Follow Me - Fr. 7a''' Start at the line of bolts just to the left of the corner of 'Aunty Pasty'. By avoiding bridging the corner, climb to a break, crux, then pull up to an overlap with a possible rest. Pull left over this, then make a committing stretch for a poor jug. Finish direct to the BB. 12m 
#'''Aunty Pasty - HVS, 4c''' The unlovely corner to the right. 12m 
#'''Unnamed #1 - E1, 5a''' The wall to the right of the corner, swinging right past a missing PR to finish up ''Airplay''. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Main Area </div>===
[[Image:trebanog_main_area_and_overhang.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Air Play - VS, 4b *''' The arête to the right and the crack directly above. 12m 
#'''Playing Away - HVS, 5a''' The wall immediately to the right and the overhanging headwall above the ledge. Very soft for the given grade. 12m 
#'''Bushbaby - HS, 4a''' Start at the left hand side of a hollow in the ground. Climb a line up the to the top. 12m 
#'''Skull Orchard - VS,4c''' A vague line somewhere to the right. 12m 
#'''Twenty B&H And A Packet Of Rizlas Please - HVS, 5a''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 11m 
#'''Simon's Crack - S''' The crack to the right. 12m 
#'''S.S.R - D''' The chimney. 11m 
#'''Jaffa Buttress - HVS, 5a *''' The centre of the buttress to the right. 9m 
#'''Terry's Crack - VS, 5a *''' The overhanging crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Heatherette - VS, 5a''' The bounding right hand arête of Terry's Crack provides a couple of almost independent moves. 9m 
#'''Howell's Horror - D''' A nondescript line up the corner of the bay to the right, containing the prominent Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Tankard - HVS, 5a''' The crack to the right of the corner. 9m 
#'''Blagdon - VS, 4c''' The shallow corner bounding the left hand side of the obvious Flat Wall. 11m 
[[Image:trebanog_main_flat_wall.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Flat Wall </div>===

#'''Firewater - Fr. 6b ''' The left hand side of the wall. Contrived. 11m 
#'''Hair Of The Dog - Fr. 7a+ *''' Climb direct up from the sentry box on the Flat Wall. B.B. 11m 
#'''Ethanol - Fr. 6b+''' Follow a line of flakes anticlockwise to the shared B.B. 11m 
#'''Pete of Lancs - Fr. 6c *''' Direct line between ''Blagdon'' and ''Hair of the Dog''. 
#'''Unnamed #2 - VS, 4c?''' The cracks to the right. They don't look VS (insert standard guidebook disclaimer). 11m ''To the right of the Flat Wall and as far as the nose (Ledge Climb) where the crag starts to double back towards the Black Chimney Area are a number of short routes:'' [[Image:trebanog_cheezy_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''Barlamb Abuse - D''' The first groove to the right of the Flat Wall. 9m 
#'''Shteep - VD''' The cracked arête separating Barlamb Abuse from Gambolling Groove. 11m 
#'''Gambolling Groove - M''' The second groove. 11m 
#'''Vaughan - S''' The vague blunt arête 6m to the right, starting on the left and traversing across to the right and a tricky finishing move. 11m 
#'''Even Cheesier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - VS, 4c *''' To the right of Vaughan, climb the slab and the bulging wall directly above it. 11m 
#'''Even Sleazier Than Barrow In Furness Bus Depot - HVS, 5a/b''' The slab to the right, then step right onto the prominent horizontal platform. Stretch up and make fingery moves past a slot to finish. 11m 
#'''Ledge Climb - VS''' To the right is the arête bounding the area. Go for it, coming in from the left. 12m 

===<div style="text-align: left;"> Big Black Chimney Area </div>===

#'''Sunday Swing - VS, 4c *''' Climb the wall just right of the arête of L edge Climb to a horizontal break. Traverse right to an enjoyable swing right up to a good crack above the apex of the chimney. Using the start of the next route is a better option with no change in grade. 12m 
#'''Out With The Boys - VS, 4c''' Climb the thin crack in the left wall of the chimney just where the soot starts. At the juggy break swing slightly left and finish direct on big greasy holds. 11m 
#'''Fire Down Below - E2, 5a''' Bridge up the extremely dirty chimney, until a handrail of loose jugs leads left to the finish of the last route. Apart from being a filthy bag, the chimney doubles as inpromptu poo spot and second hand garden furniture depository. 14m 
#'''Kiwis Can't Fly - E1, 5c''' The thin crack in the right hand wall of the chimney finishing up the right hand crack of Sunday Swing. Another poor route. 12m 
#'''I Spy Arête - HS, 4a *''' At last a worthwhile route! The arete to the right of the chimney. 11m [[Image:trebanog_black_chimney_area.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Click to Expand.]]
#'''I Spy Direct E1, 5b''' The wall to the right. Hidden RPs are available behind the flake above the half height ledge. 9m 
#'''High And Dry - E1, 5a''' The crack line just right. 10m 
#'''Eastend Groove - HS, 4a''' The crack in the left wall of the bay to the right. 9m 
#'''Blood - E1, 5b''' An extremely contrived route up the wall between Eastend Groove and Mick's Little Viper, avoiding gear and holds on either routes. 9m 
#'''Mick's Little Viper - HVS, 5a *''' The clean finger crack in the centre of the wall eats gear. 9m 
#'''Eastend Crack - HS''' The next slightly vegetated crack to the right. 9m 
#'''Desperate Arête - S *''' The arête to the right is very good. 9m ''To the right is another bay:'' 
#'''Decent Route - D''' The cracks in the left wall of the bay. 9m 
#'''Hard Death Rain Down - HS, 4b''' The wall and overhang to the right of Decent Route. 9m 
#'''Unknown Corner - VD''' The right-hand corner of the wall. 9m 
#'''Jo - VS, 4c *''' In the right wall of the bay and the left of the arête is a curving crack which is followed until it is possible to pull out left into a scoop. Continue up the headwall via a protruding block. Good stuff. 9m 
#'''Last Arête - HS, 4c *''' Obvious by name, an excellent little climb. 9m 
#'''Penultimate - HVS, 4c''' The wall immediately right of the last arête. Bold with fragile holds. 9m 

[[Image:olli last arete.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Olli Burrows on Last Arete HS]]

===First Ascents===


Left Hand End

#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#P.Lewis 00.00.1995
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990

Overhanging Wall

#M.Learoyd, C.Nash, G.Lewis 00.00.1998
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
#A.Sharp 00.00.1991
#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1990
#J.Harwood 17.03.1990

Main Area

#G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#H.Griffiths, SWMC 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#R.Lawrence, S.Coles 12.07.1992
#S.Coles, R.Lawrence 06.12.1991
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock 24.02.1992
#H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, 00.00.1988
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, T.Darlow 26.11.1994
#T.Howell 00.00.1988
#C.Shorrock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#P.Hamer, R.Smith 00.00.1984
#A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984

Flat Wall

#A.Sharp 00.00.1983
#J.Harwood 26.03.1990
#G.Davis 2017
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorock, J.Whitford 24.02.1992
#C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#A.Eggleton, C.Shorock 02.01.1994
#C.Shorock, M.Chapman 05.11.1994
#G.Ashmore 26.04.1998
#Unknown Pre-1990

Big Black Chimney Area

#G.Lewis 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, G.Lewis, M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#G.Lewis, T.Howell, H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#L.Foulkes, M.Learoyd, C.Nash 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd, SWMC 00.00.1988
#J.Harwood, R.high 17.11.1996
#H.Griffiths 00.00.1988
#T.Darlow 00.00.1988
#M.Learoyd 00.00.1988
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#Unknown Pre-1990
#C.Shorrock, M.Chapman 05.10.1994
#Unknown
#C.Shorrock, A.Eggleton 02.01.1994
#Unknown Pre-1990
#G.Williams, J.Harwood 26.09.2002

[[Image:Last Arete.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Last Arete, Trebanog. Photo by Oli Buxton]]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-10-04T20:15:06Z

Alan rosier: /* FIRST ASCENTS */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil. ''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 
#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall (optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24.03.2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 03.04.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-10-04T19:30:07Z

Alan rosier: /* MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil. ''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 
#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall (optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Ridgeway

2017-10-03T15:17:45Z

Alan rosier: /* BLACK SLAB */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
__NOTITLE__
[[image:Newcrag-20.png|link=]]
[[Image:Ridgeway Header.jpg|850 px|thumb|right|]]
[[Image:analogue kid.jpg|320px|thumb|right|Climber on Analogue Kid Fr.6a+]]

Postcode district: NP11 7

Grid Reference: ST 169 929

Lat: 51:37:46N (51.62946)

Lon: 3:12:02W (-3.20069)

==PREAMBLE==

The Ridgeway quarry lies in a rural hilltop location and contains a couple of quick drying walls of coarse sandstone. So far, sport climbing development has been restricted to the tall 'Black Slab' and short orange overhanging face, 'Boney Wall'.

==ACCESS==

From the A472 between [[wikipedia:Ystrad Mynach|Ystrad Mynach]] and [[wikipedia:Blackwood, Caerphilly|Blackwood]], where the carriageway changes from single to dual, turn south on the roundabout sign posted to Bryn Meadows Golf Club. Follow the lane for approximately 1 mile and park on the right at an obvious layby. Follow a path directly from the layby into the quarry on the right, approximately 50m.

If in doubt look for the tall radio mast about 100m beyond the quarry.

[http://osm.org/go/euOfgTei- OpenStreetMap]

==DESCENTS==

All routes are equipped with double bolt abseil stations.

==ROUTES==
[[Image:Black slab.jpg|500px|thumb|right| Black Slab Topo.]]
''The routes are described from left to right. ''

===BLACK SLAB===

''A tall slabby wall with half a dozen sport routes, some of real quality. The wall faces north-east and can be very cold when the wind is up, or a welcome escape from hot and humid conditions elsewhere.''

#'''Geotechnique – Fr. 6b+''' The rounded left arête of the wall, starting half way up the banking. Technical. 10m 
#'''Powered by Cheese and Ham – Fr. 6a *''' Just to the right of the tree is a vertical crack, follow it to the top of the wall. 16m 
#'''Spacebats - Fr. 6c+ **''' A crimpy and technical offering. The ever steepening wall between the cracks.16m 
#'''Analogue Kid - Fr. 6a+ **''' Follow the diagonal crack to its end. A couple of thin moves lead to a search for holds on the lip of the ledge. 18 m. 
#'''Kill the Superheroes – Fr. 6b+ **''' The line of staples branching rightwards from the ''Analogue Kid'' crack. Near the top, use a thin crack and pull straight over a small roof to reach finger rails. The corner to the right is definitely 'off-route'. 17m 
#'''Wee Wyllie Wonka – Fr. 6a''' The steep (loose) cracks and slabby corner on the far right of the wall. 17m [[Image:Geotechnique.png|200px|thumb|right|Geotechnique]]

''Done all these? Time to head to Navigation Quarry!''

===BONEY WALL===

''A steep little face, very quick drying and south-east facing. The climbs are mainly on big incut holds but with a short sharp crux.''

#'''Yo Momma – Fr. 6b+''' Start at the graffiti ‘’BONEY’’ and climb the leaning orange wall, close to the left arete. 10m 
#'''Chasing Dragonflies - Fr. 6b *''' The central line on the leaning wall. 9m 
#'''Shotgun Party – Fr. 6b''' A short route on the right side of the wall. Tree stump belay at ground level. 8m 

===OTHER===

''Between the developed walls is an old route.'' 

#'''Name Unknown''' Behind a tree in the northwest part of the quarry is a blocky ramp and steep parallel cracks, containing an old peg. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==


#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
#B. Danby - 12.09.2010
#R. McAllister - 10.09.2010
#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010 - The day Wales switched to digital TV.
#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
#R. Thomas - 17.03.2011

BONEY WALL

#A.Rosier - 12.09.2010
#A. Rosier – 21.03.2010
#A. Rosier – 21.03.2010 - A credit to the ex Italian special forces member and crazy local guy who generously let Bruce and I pop some caps with their supersonic rifle and shotgun arsenal. It's never dull around here!


== THE MAP ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|centre=51.62946, -3.20069
|zoom=13
|service=openlayers
|layers=osm-mapnik,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher
}}

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:analogue kid 1.jpg|Climber at the top of Analogue Kid
File:Chasing Dragonflies.jpg|Simon Williams leading Chasing Dragonflies on the overhanging Boney Wall
File:SWMC meet 25 May 2011.jpg|SWMC meet 25 May 2011
File:Ridgeway 2.jpg|Panorama
</gallery>

Ridgeway

2017-10-03T15:16:38Z

Alan rosier: /* ROUTES */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
__NOTITLE__
[[image:Newcrag-20.png|link=]]
[[Image:Ridgeway Header.jpg|850 px|thumb|right|]]
[[Image:analogue kid.jpg|320px|thumb|right|Climber on Analogue Kid Fr.6a+]]

Postcode district: NP11 7

Grid Reference: ST 169 929

Lat: 51:37:46N (51.62946)

Lon: 3:12:02W (-3.20069)

==PREAMBLE==

The Ridgeway quarry lies in a rural hilltop location and contains a couple of quick drying walls of coarse sandstone. So far, sport climbing development has been restricted to the tall 'Black Slab' and short orange overhanging face, 'Boney Wall'.

==ACCESS==

From the A472 between [[wikipedia:Ystrad Mynach|Ystrad Mynach]] and [[wikipedia:Blackwood, Caerphilly|Blackwood]], where the carriageway changes from single to dual, turn south on the roundabout sign posted to Bryn Meadows Golf Club. Follow the lane for approximately 1 mile and park on the right at an obvious layby. Follow a path directly from the layby into the quarry on the right, approximately 50m.

If in doubt look for the tall radio mast about 100m beyond the quarry.

[http://osm.org/go/euOfgTei- OpenStreetMap]

==DESCENTS==

All routes are equipped with double bolt abseil stations.

==ROUTES==
[[Image:Black slab.jpg|500px|thumb|right| Black Slab Topo.]]
''The routes are described from left to right. ''

===BLACK SLAB===

''A tall slabby wall with half a dozen sport routes of real quality. The wall faces north-east and can be very cold when the wind is up, or a welcome escape from hot and humid conditions elsewhere.''

#'''Geotechnique – Fr. 6b+''' The rounded left arête of the wall, starting half way up the banking. Technical. 10m 
#'''Powered by Cheese and Ham – Fr. 6a *''' Just to the right of the tree is a vertical crack, follow it to the top of the wall. 16m 
#'''Spacebats - Fr. 6c+ **''' A crimpy and technical offering. The ever steepening wall between the cracks.16m 
#'''Analogue Kid - Fr. 6a+ **''' Follow the diagonal crack to its end. A couple of thin moves lead to a search for holds on the lip of the ledge. 18 m. 
#'''Kill the Superheroes – Fr. 6b+ **''' The line of staples branching rightwards from the ''Analogue Kid'' crack. Near the top, use a thin crack and pull straight over a small roof to reach finger rails. The corner to the right is definitely 'off-route'. 17m 
#'''Wee Wyllie Wonka – Fr. 6a''' The steep (loose) cracks and slabby corner on the far right of the wall. 17m [[Image:Geotechnique.png|200px|thumb|right|Geotechnique]]

''Done all these? Time to head to Navigation Quarry!''

===BONEY WALL===

''A steep little face, very quick drying and south-east facing. The climbs are mainly on big incut holds but with a short sharp crux.''

#'''Yo Momma – Fr. 6b+''' Start at the graffiti ‘’BONEY’’ and climb the leaning orange wall, close to the left arete. 10m 
#'''Chasing Dragonflies - Fr. 6b *''' The central line on the leaning wall. 9m 
#'''Shotgun Party – Fr. 6b''' A short route on the right side of the wall. Tree stump belay at ground level. 8m 

===OTHER===

''Between the developed walls is an old route.'' 

#'''Name Unknown''' Behind a tree in the northwest part of the quarry is a blocky ramp and steep parallel cracks, containing an old peg. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==


#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
#B. Danby - 12.09.2010
#R. McAllister - 10.09.2010
#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010 - The day Wales switched to digital TV.
#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
#R. Thomas - 17.03.2011

BONEY WALL

#A.Rosier - 12.09.2010
#A. Rosier – 21.03.2010
#A. Rosier – 21.03.2010 - A credit to the ex Italian special forces member and crazy local guy who generously let Bruce and I pop some caps with their supersonic rifle and shotgun arsenal. It's never dull around here!


== THE MAP ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|centre=51.62946, -3.20069
|zoom=13
|service=openlayers
|layers=osm-mapnik,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher
}}

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:analogue kid 1.jpg|Climber at the top of Analogue Kid
File:Chasing Dragonflies.jpg|Simon Williams leading Chasing Dragonflies on the overhanging Boney Wall
File:SWMC meet 25 May 2011.jpg|SWMC meet 25 May 2011
File:Ridgeway 2.jpg|Panorama
</gallery>

Ridgeway

2017-10-03T15:13:21Z

Alan rosier:

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
__NOTITLE__
[[image:Newcrag-20.png|link=]]
[[Image:Ridgeway Header.jpg|850 px|thumb|right|]]
[[Image:analogue kid.jpg|320px|thumb|right|Climber on Analogue Kid Fr.6a+]]

Postcode district: NP11 7

Grid Reference: ST 169 929

Lat: 51:37:46N (51.62946)

Lon: 3:12:02W (-3.20069)

==PREAMBLE==

The Ridgeway quarry lies in a rural hilltop location and contains a couple of quick drying walls of coarse sandstone. So far, sport climbing development has been restricted to the tall 'Black Slab' and short orange overhanging face, 'Boney Wall'.

==ACCESS==

From the A472 between [[wikipedia:Ystrad Mynach|Ystrad Mynach]] and [[wikipedia:Blackwood, Caerphilly|Blackwood]], where the carriageway changes from single to dual, turn south on the roundabout sign posted to Bryn Meadows Golf Club. Follow the lane for approximately 1 mile and park on the right at an obvious layby. Follow a path directly from the layby into the quarry on the right, approximately 50m.

If in doubt look for the tall radio mast about 100m beyond the quarry.

[http://osm.org/go/euOfgTei- OpenStreetMap]

==DESCENTS==

All routes are equipped with double bolt abseil stations.

==ROUTES==
[[Image:Black slab.|500px|thumb|right| Black Slab Topo.]]
''The routes are described from left to right. ''

===BLACK SLAB===

''A tall slabby wall with half a dozen sport routes of real quality. The wall faces north-east and can be very cold when the wind is up, or a welcome escape from hot and humid conditions elsewhere.''

#'''Geotechnique – Fr. 6b+''' The rounded left arête of the wall, starting half way up the banking. Technical. 10m 
#'''Powered by Cheese and Ham – Fr. 6a *''' Just to the right of the tree is a vertical crack, follow it to the top of the wall. 16m 
#'''Spacebats - Fr. 6c+ **''' A crimpy and technical offering. The ever steepening wall between the cracks.16m 
#'''Analogue Kid - Fr. 6a+ **''' Follow the diagonal crack to its end. A couple of thin moves lead to a search for holds on the lip of the ledge. 18 m. 
#'''Kill the Superheroes – Fr. 6b+ **''' The line of staples branching rightwards from the ''Analogue Kid'' crack. Near the top, use a thin crack and pull straight over a small roof to reach finger rails. The corner to the right is definitely 'off-route'. 17m 
#'''Wee Wyllie Wonka – Fr. 6a''' The steep (loose) cracks and slabby corner on the far right of the wall. 17m [[Image:Geotechnique.png|200px|thumb|right|Geotechnique]]

''Done all these? Time to head to Navigation Quarry!''

===BONEY WALL===

''A steep little face, very quick drying and south-east facing. The climbs are mainly on big incut holds but with a short sharp crux.''

#'''Yo Momma – Fr. 6b+''' Start at the graffiti ‘’BONEY’’ and climb the leaning orange wall, close to the left arete. 10m 
#'''Chasing Dragonflies - Fr. 6b *''' The central line on the leaning wall. 9m 
#'''Shotgun Party – Fr. 6b''' A short route on the right side of the wall. Tree stump belay at ground level. 8m 

===OTHER===

''Between the developed walls is an old route.'' 

#'''Name Unknown''' Behind a tree in the northwest part of the quarry is a blocky ramp and steep parallel cracks, containing an old peg. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==


#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
#B. Danby - 12.09.2010
#R. McAllister - 10.09.2010
#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010 - The day Wales switched to digital TV.
#A. Rosier - 13.03.2010
#R. Thomas - 17.03.2011

BONEY WALL

#A.Rosier - 12.09.2010
#A. Rosier – 21.03.2010
#A. Rosier – 21.03.2010 - A credit to the ex Italian special forces member and crazy local guy who generously let Bruce and I pop some caps with their supersonic rifle and shotgun arsenal. It's never dull around here!


== THE MAP ==
{{#display_points:
{{Googlemap}}
|centre=51.62946, -3.20069
|zoom=13
|service=openlayers
|layers=osm-mapnik,google
|controls=panzoombar,scaleline,overviewmap,keyboarddefaults,navigation,layerswitcher
}}

==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:analogue kid 1.jpg|Climber at the top of Analogue Kid
File:Chasing Dragonflies.jpg|Simon Williams leading Chasing Dragonflies on the overhanging Boney Wall
File:SWMC meet 25 May 2011.jpg|SWMC meet 25 May 2011
File:Ridgeway 2.jpg|Panorama
</gallery>

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-10-01T20:25:25Z

Alan rosier: /* THE ROUTES */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. [[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil. ''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 
#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' Climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall. (Optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Dell, The

2017-09-30T06:50:14Z

Alan rosier:

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
==BOLTING POLICY==
As many as possible.

==PREAMBLE==
A strong candidate for the most unattractive climbing venue in SE Wales.

Probably worse than Penrhiwceiber Quarry, Gilwern Lower and Machen Quarry.

There is however some pretty stiff competition around for this dubious accolade, and Crag X (at Radyr Golf Course?!?) hasn't been visited by the Wiki team yet.

==ACCESS==

Park on the west side of the B4039, sign posted ''The Dell''.

Walk up the single track lane 50 m to a corrugated tin shed.

Jump over the fence into the damp, rubbish filled, gully.

Follow the shady gully, until the arete rises majestically out of the marsh.

'''Lat/Long:''' 51.694035, -4.167102

'''Grid Ref.:''' SN 503 017

==DESCENTS==

==THE ROUTES==
===Sidewall===
#'''Foxy Lady - Fr. 6a''' The striking arete in the centre of the crag. 
#'''Dogs in the Dell - Fr. 6b''' Wall to the right of the arete. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==


# Foxy Lady - G.Lewis, P. Wardman - 00.00.2011
# Dogs in the Dell - G.Lewis, P. Wardman - 00.00.2011



==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:The dell entrance wall.jpg|Entrance
File:The dell arete and wall.jpg|Arete and Wall
</gallery>

Dell, The

2017-09-30T06:48:00Z

Alan rosier:

Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd

2017-09-28T18:46:20Z

Alan rosier: /* CENTRAL WALL */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]


'''Peregrine, kestrel and raven have nested in caves around ''Fly Me To The Moon'' and ''The Owl and the Antelope'' at Navigation Quarry.'''
The BMC RAD advises climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the August. However, the nests are often unused.

See [http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978 BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry]
[[Image:On Jupiter and Mars.jpg|500px|thumb|right|Chris Shorrock ''On Jupiter and Mars''. Photo courtesy of Mark Salter.]]
== BOLTING POLICY ==

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission.

Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible.

New sports routes allowed.

== PREAMBLE ==

A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.

The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.

The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.

The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the pegs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.

The [[Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd|Navigation]] is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.

See you there.
[[Image:nav_2.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Climber (centre) about to commit to the crux of ''The Owl and the Antelope'']]

== ACCESS ==

Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond [[wikipedia:Abercynon|Abercynon]] and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of [[wikipedia:Cilfynydd|Cilfynydd]] coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. One could park here but it is now fenced off.

Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.

== DESCENTS ==

Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.

== THE ROUTES ==

===<div style="text-align: center;"> LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''The left hand retaining wall of the quarry is somewhat disappointing.'' 
#'''Leftover - Fr. 4''' The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb. 
#'''Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a''' Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown. 
#'''Gold Block - Fr. 6a''' Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m. Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack. 
## Variation '''Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+.''' At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O. 
## Variation '''Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c.''' Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS</div>===

''This wall starts off with a black slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 12m. One route starts from the grassy terrace. The best place to abseil is a ring and chain above ''Gold Block''.'' 
#'''The Elastic Retreat - Fr. 6c+''' Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the crack left of the ''Geeny'' ramp to a roof and overcome it using a very thin hold. 3 Bolts. L.O. 7 m. ''All other routes start from ground level.'' 
#'''Peg Bristol - E5, 6a''' Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of ''Gold Block'' under a black sheet. Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab, climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break take the left-most diagonal crack. Finish at will. 12 m. 
#'''Half Man, Half Machine - Fr. 6b''' What does it mean? Climb the black groove (possibly with a minor diversion to the arete). At the main break, shuffle leftward and stretch over the bulge to decent holds (don't miss the mother-of-all kneebars!). Rock up onto the slab and finish easily up the diagonal crack. 6 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Code of the Road - E1, 5a''' A full height route, which the sensible will pre-inspect, brush and possibly descale. Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a large Cam in a pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack. Abseil. 20 m. 
#'''Bootylicious - Fr. 6a''' A steep start, right of the arete, leads to a pocketed slab. L.O. before ledge. 5 bolts. L.O. 12 m. 
#'''Rockover Beethoven - Fr. 5+''' Climb the crack bounded pedestal and black slab. 5 bolts. Shared L.O. 12 m. 
#'''The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *''' Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt, and without deviation to ''Rockover'', head straight up to the sharp 'V' notch. From the ledge take the bulge and headwall direct. 8 bolts. Abseil. 20 m. [[Image:navigation left hand topoa.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]
#'''Where Did You Get That Bolt - Fr. 7a''' Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on ''Squash Match'', and finish as for that route. 
#'''Squash Match - Fr. 6a''' Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish. Abseil. 25 m. 
#'''Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *''' Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole on the lip of the rounded break. Walk carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove in the blocky headwall (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Geeny - E1, 5b''' The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Death Wish - E2, 5b''' The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of ''Fly Me to the Moon''. 
#'''Fly Me to the Moon - VS, 5a **''' Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above (BR). Small cams protect the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall (BR), which is plastered in superb jugs. Abseil. 21 m. 
#'''A Blank Abstract - Fr. 7a''' Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC. Easier climbing up the right side of the slab leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by ''Man Or Mouse''. 4 bolts. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *''' Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges to gain a ledge and a simple finish. 4 bolts. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **''' Classic Navigation fare. Take the flake crack to the right of ''Man Or Mouse'' to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire). Abseil or L.O. on adjacent routes. 21 m. 

[[Image:Navigation centre topo.jpg|900px|thumb|centre|]]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> CENTRAL WALL</div>===

''The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes ''Western Front Direct'' and ''Eastern Bloc Rock''. Wandering old trad lines have been greyed out in the text to avoid confusion.''

#'''Deus Ex Machina - Fr. 6c *''' Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab with three closely spaced bolts. From the shaley ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to more thin climbing at a steepening just before the finish. L.O. 21 m. 
#'''Black Magic - Fr. 6b *''' Climb a thin blind crack to a series of ledges. From the main ledge, tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Abseil. 22 m. 
#'''The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **''' Start at PLOD and gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. Top out and abseil. 21 m. 
#'''Ladybird - E3, 5c''' Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp, at the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall. Finish boldly and with difficulty, up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs. 
#'''Relax - E2, 5b''' From where ''Ladybird'' saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish. There may be just enough bolts within reach to justify this line having a sports grade. 
#'''Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **''' And the route lives up to them. A series of entertaining boulder problems between resting ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O. 
#'''Western Front - E4, 6a''' Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. 
#'''Western Front Direct - Fr. 7a ***'''[[Image:black magic.jpg|500px|thumb|right|A visiting Londoner on ''Black Magic'']] Most peoples candidate for the route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the cracked headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O. 20 m. 
#'''Eastern Bloc Rock - Fr. 7a+ **''' The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Tears for Smears - E1, 5b''' Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by ''Goblin Girl'' and ''Let Me Know What..''. Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward. 
#'''Goblin Girl - Fr. 6b+ *''' A well protected outing, following (often wet) good rough rock to land on a ledge at 2/3rd height. The leftwards facing corner is tricky to enter and to leave through the overhang above. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b''' Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height. Abseil. 23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA</div>===

''Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.''

#'''Evening Light - E2, 5c / Fr. 6b *''' The arête right of ''Let Me Know''. Take the left side of the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (drilled PR). The sports version follows ''Mouse Trap'' to a step left to reach the drilled PR. Then climbs the right side of the arete (hard to clip BR) and finish to the right (br) as for ''Save a Mouse''. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - Fr. 6c *''' Follow ''Mouse Trap'' but take the centre of the obvious scoop. 
#'''Mouse Trap - Fr. 6b+''' On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Step left after the groove and climb the centre of the blocky buttress to the hanging slab. Avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on ''Save a Mouse'' (if you can?), follow a line of bolts up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **''' The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Climb the right hand side of the blocky pillar to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove. Abseil. 23 m.
##Variation 1 '''Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a *''' From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top. 
#'''On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **''' A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof, below the easy finishing groove. Abseil. 23 m. 
#'''Over The Moon - E3, 5c *''' Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a strip roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the ''Owl'' thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in the ''Owl'' shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top. Abseil.
23 m. 

===<div style="text-align: center;"> MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION</div>===
''The following four sports climbs share a common chain belay, DON'T WEAR IT OUT, USE YOUR OWN CARIBINERS.'' 

#'''Crash Landing - Fr. 6a *''' Start below a shallow groove at 8 m, gain and leave it rightwards. Follow the bulging slab to the top. Chain L.O. 19 m.[[Image:Owl&antelope.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Tom Palfreman at the top of - ''The Owl and the Antelope'' E2 5c]] 
#'''Ol’ Blue Eyes - Fr. 6c''' Right of ''Crash Landing'' is a prominent boss of rock. Pull through this to gain easier ground. 19 m. 
#'''Heart Throb - Fr. 6b *''' climb directly to a tricky move up the shallow right facing corner at 10m, swing left onto slabs to finish. Shared L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Ewe Flock Wit - Fr. 6a''' Wall to right of ''Heart Throb''. Traverse left below a tree to the upper slab and a shared chain L.O. Minimum use of rubbly crack permitted. L.O. 19 m. 
#'''Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c''' The cracked groove to the right. ''The crag now splits in half via a grassy horizontal ledge with trees either end. The following routes can be split as described below. The harder pitches start from the floor. The easier pitches start from the ledge. It is easy to abseil onto the ledge and arrange belays on trees, just don't be a plonker and fall off.'' 
#'''Ram Raider - Fr. 6a+''' Left trending corner (avoid ''Sheepbone'' choss further out left). A long pull onto the ledge is rewarded by a nice low angle slab finish. L.O. 17 m. 
##'''Ram Bam Thank You Mam - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Ram Raider'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Spring Lamb Mantle - Fr. 6b *''' Obvious (mantle) shelf in the orange wall. (Optional L.O below the ledge at 10 m). Continue easily to the top via the bolts above the ledge. 17 m. 
##'''Mint Topping - Fr. 5c''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Spring Lamb Mantle'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 6 m. 
#'''Feeling Sheep - Fr. 7b''' A perverse activity up the bulge right of ''Sheepbone Wall''. One very hard move, without much merit. Abseil from tree. 9 m. 
#'''project closed''' Cleaning and bolting not completed. 8 m. 
#'''Baaaaad to the Bone - Fr. 6b+''' White bulge, left of the corner. Pull onto the ledge, on grass, or on the rope tied to a tree. Finish up a slab (green BR's) with a strip overhang at its apex. 13 m. 
##'''Woolly Pullover - Fr. 5a''' From the half height ledge, the continuation of ''Baaaad to the Bone'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. 
#'''Tupping Time - Fr. 4+''' The blocky corner at the far right of the main wall with three possible finishes. 13 m.
##'''Tupping Time (original finish) - Fr. 4''' From the half height ledge, the original continuation of ''Tupping Time'' can be climbed as a short pitch in its own right. From the grassy ledge, continue up a slab behind the ash tree. L.O. 6 m.
##Variation - '''Spinning a Good Yarn - Fr. 5+ ''' Start as for ''Tupping'' then take the excellent red groove on good rock.
##Variation - '''Mutton Chops - Fr. 5''' A right hand finish to ''Tupping'', take care, a stiff pull to gain the belay. 
[[Image:JupiterandMars.jpg|800px|thumb|centre|''On Jupiter and Mars'']]

===<div style="text-align: center;"> RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL</div>===

''This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.''
#'''Stainless Steel Association project''' bolting and cleaning of green slab not yet completed. 
#'''Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a''' Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m 
#'''Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a''' The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake. 
#'''Alco-troll - Fr. 6a''' Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O. 
#'''Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *''' Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.

===<div style="text-align: center;"> THE TRAVERSES </div>===

#'''Acid House Trip - E2, 5c''' Follow ''Heart Throb'', then move left into ''On Jupiter'' at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on ''The Owl''. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on ''Save A Mouse''. Swing round the arête to the ledge on ''Let Me Know''. Finish up this or as for ''The Gang Of Four''. 
#'''The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b''' From the tree on ''Let Me Know'' move left to where the PR on ''Tears For Smears'' should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up ''Ladybird'' to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall. 
#'''String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+''' A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires. '''P.1. - Fr. 6b''' Climb to BR2 on ''Rockover Beethoven''. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the ''Deathwish'' arête. Continue across ''Fly me to the Moon'' and clip BR of ''Man or Mouse''. Traverse delicately right past BR on ''Let me Play'' and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on ''The Relaxed Ladybird''. 45m. '''P.2. - Fr. 6b+''' Make a hard move up and right on ''Great Expectations''. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of ''Western Front'', under its crack, into the groove of ''Let me Know''. Hop around the arête of ''Evening Light'' (2PR) and balance across the scoop of ''Save a Mouse'' Move up and traverse across ''The Owl'' slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of ''On Jupiter''. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==



LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retro-bolted 2007
#Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
#Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retro-bolted 2007
##Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
##Variation 2 - 2007

MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS

#Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
#Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
#Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
#Bootylicious - 21.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retro-bolted 2007
#The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
#The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007 Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers
#Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
#Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
#Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
#Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
#A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
#Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
#Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007

CENTRAL WALL

#Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier, R.McAllister
#Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster - Retro-bolted 2013
#The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
#Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
#Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
#Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
#Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
#Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
#Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007

OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA

#Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
#Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
#Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker -Retro-bolted 2017.
#Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retro-bolted 2008
#The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
##Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
#On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
#Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
''(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed ''The Owl and the Antelope Variation'' but prior to it being publicised. It was however first climbed by G.Lewis as ''Acid House Trip'' and given permissions to retrobolt. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).''

MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION

#Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retro-bolted 2007
#Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd - Retro-bolted 2017
#Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - Retro-bolted 2017
#Ewe Flock Wit - 17.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
#Ram Raider - 19.09.2017 - A.Rosier, R.Thomas
#Spring Lamb Mantle - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Upper wall - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
#Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
#Proj closed
#Baaaaad to the Bone - 24.09.2017 - A.Rosier
#Tupping Time - 21.09.2017 - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, R.McAllister
##Spin a Yarn- 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas
##Mutton Chops - 26.09.2017 - R.Thomas

RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL

#Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
#Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
#Alco-troll - 01.03.2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
#Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 08.03.2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis

THE TRAVERSES

#Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
#The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
#Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)



[[Image:WFD6.jpg|500px|thumb|left|Dean Howard climbing ''Western Front Direct'']]

Dell, The

2017-09-28T17:00:45Z

Alan rosier: /* ACCESS */

[[Category:South East Wales Sandstone]]
[[:Category:Gower and South East Wales|Contents]]

[[:Category:South East Wales Sandstone|South East Wales Sandstone]]
==BOLTING POLICY==
As many as possible.

==PREAMBLE==
A strong candidate for the most unattractive climbing venue in SE Wales.

Probably worse than Penrhiwceiber Quarry, Gilwern Lower and Machen Quarry.

There is however some pretty stiff competition around, and Crag X (at Radyr Golf Course?!?) hasn't been visited by the Wiki team yet.

==ACCESS==

Park on the west side of the B4039, sign posted ''The Dell''.

Walk up the single track lane 50 m to a corrugated tin shed.

Jump over the fence into the damp, rubbish filled, gully.

Follow the shady gully, until the arete rises majestically out of the marsh.

'''Lat/Long:''' 51.694035, -4.167102

'''Grid Ref.:''' SN 503 017

==DESCENTS==

==THE ROUTES==
===Sidewall===
#'''Foxy Lady - Fr. 6a''' The striking arete in the centre of the crag. 
#'''Dogs in the Dell - Fr. 6b''' Wall to the right of the arete. 

==FIRST ASCENTS==


# Foxy Lady - G.Lewis, P. Wardman - 00.00.2011
# Dogs in the Dell - G.Lewis, P. Wardman - 00.00.2011



==ADDITIONAL PHOTOS==
<gallery>
File:The dell entrance wall.jpg|Entrance
File:The dell arete and wall.jpg|Arete and Wall
</gallery>